Torque key

Abyssul

Junior Member
I know most drummers give negative feedback at the mention of anything automatic about drum tuning, but I heard mixed results about the results of a drum torque keys. I've only been playing for 2 months and still can't tune my heads correctly. I know there is nothing better than tuning by ear, but I am getting frustrated.

Can any give me some advice on this situation? If you think I should get a torque key, what one? I have also heard that they don't work on diecast hoops. How could I find that out? I have a Pearl Export EXR series
 
Hi,

Look up some tuning threads by cdrums21. I am 55 and I have been playing for 41 years and most of those years I struggled with my tuning. So now they invent the torque key so I bought it. More frustration so I bought the drum dial, even more frustration. cdrums21 taught me how to tune using a cheap pitch pipe. You want to get each lug to the same pitch. For example my 10" tom I tune to a C or if I want it a bit brighter I tune it to a D. The bottom head you can tune it to the same pitch (that will make the tom ring a bit more)or you could tune the bottom head up a minor third or major third and that will shorten the decay, a bit more punch. I can forward you some posts that cdrums21 sent me.

This technique works great. I play some pretty good sized gigs with sound companies and they all have nice compliments on the sound of my kit.
 
Check out Bob Gatzen's videos on how to tune, I have used his method and all my drums sound really good. Like 2bsticks said, you need to make all the lugs sound the same. You tap the drum head 2 two inches from the lug, then tap another lug next to it and make adjustments with your drum key until they all sound the same, which brings out the music in your drums. The more you tune the faster you will get. Another good reference that a lot people on here will tell you to look at is the drum tuning bible.
 
I've seen all of Bob Gatzden's videos multiple times as well as the drum bible. Gave me some good points, but it just doesn't want to tune right. If I tune one lug high, then the other ones get even higher so it makes it impossible. I usually give it a shot every week on my snare drum till I find out my problem. I'll look into the cdrums21. I never learned how to tune to certain "letter" pitchs.
 
Can someone explain to me how the whole music scale works? I just looked it up yet it doesn't make sense. Minor thirds, major thirds, etc. Mainly what pertains to drumming.
 
I can't really explain your question a post above me, but if you need to get your snare drum tuned up, you can take it to a place like guitar center or sometimes a local music store (a drum store is probably better). In fact, I brought my snare to be tuned up to guitar center a week ago, they tuned it up really nice. While they they tune it up you can go play the sets or look at drum gear, which to me is always a plus.
 
Back to the original question, the torque key can only work properly if every tension rod/lug insert has exactly the same amount of friction.

Alas, in the real world this is almost never the case, even with brand-new drums.

If the Gatzen videos or other written descriptions of tuning haven't helped, it may be worth trying to get a couple of lessons from a drummer who can tune. It's not particularly difficult but it really helps to know what to listen for.
 
Thanks for all the help. I just emailed the only music store in my area about any services for tuning. Hopefully they can.
 
Hi,

Look up some tuning threads by cdrums21. I am 55 and I have been playing for 41 years and most of those years I struggled with my tuning. So now they invent the torque key so I bought it. More frustration so I bought the drum dial, even more frustration. cdrums21 taught me how to tune using a cheap pitch pipe. You want to get each lug to the same pitch. For example my 10" tom I tune to a C or if I want it a bit brighter I tune it to a D. The bottom head you can tune it to the same pitch (that will make the tom ring a bit more)or you could tune the bottom head up a minor third or major third and that will shorten the decay, a bit more punch. I can forward you some posts that cdrums21 sent me.

This technique works great. I play some pretty good sized gigs with sound companies and they all have nice compliments on the sound of my kit.

minor third for C is D# ?? right? and major third is E ??
 
When you're tuning this way, just count up 3 or 4 notes above where the top head is tuned to find the pitch for the bottom head. 3 notes is a minor third, 4 notes is a major third.
 
I have an Evans torque key, and only ever use it for quick tune ups before and during gigs. When I bought it, I sat down tuning everything evenly by ear with an ordinary drum key. i then practised reaching those tunings with the torque key. Result is the same sound, with even tension on each lug, and it makes head changes much easier. Not saying that you cant tune up just as fast with an ordinary drum key (which I often do) but it does make life a bit easier, especially during loud gigs when my snare goes out of tune and I cant hear the pitch very well.
 
Well my snare still has a nasty overtone and makes it unplayable unless I put moongel on it. I want the snare to be between a crack and poppy sound. As for the toms, I'm going to tune them to be punchy. I found cdrum21's posts here: http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6029&page=2

cdrums21 said:
The 10” tom has the top head tuned to a “B” and the bottom head a minor third higher to a “D”. The 13” tom has the top head tuned to an “F” and the bottom head a minor third higher to a “G#”. The 16” floor tom has the top head tuned to a “B” and the bottom head a minor third higher to a “D”. They sound and feel great, no overtones or snare buzz. Please post some comments if you try this technique, or if you just want to say stuff about it. Good luck and happy tuning!!

Helped a lot.

I found a online tuner here: http://www.farleysessentials.com/pilot.asp?pg=tuner&Tune=chromatic_C but the tones seem impossible.
 
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I can't really explain your question a post above me, but if you need to get your snare drum tuned up, you can take it to a place like guitar center or sometimes a local music store (a drum store is probably better). In fact, I brought my snare to be tuned up to guitar center a week ago, they tuned it up really nice. While they they tune it up you can go play the sets or look at drum gear, which to me is always a plus.
Surely the majority of drummers don't tune drums, they merely find the tension that works for them and makes the drum sound correct for the musical style they are playing. Tuning a drum to a musical note can cause havoc in a band as it fights against chords being played by things like guitars and keys. I'e been playing drums professionally for over 50 years and never really tuned a drum. Between head changes, which are pretty infrequent, I hardly ever tweak or touch a tension rod. I find snare drums especially get bedded down into a sweet spot and any changing of tension will lose it completely. I always fear needing to change a snare drum head, as know it will take a long time for it to settle back into that favoured spot again. partly due to the head getting worn in and it getting seated nicely. Unless you are playing very note important music, it's best to tension your drums, especially toms, to their sweet spot at the pitch that suits your music style. You don't want the heads cranked tightly for rock and middle of the road music, and you don't want them fairly loose for jazz. For Rock, blues and general MOR I finger tighten the head and then use a key to remove any wrinkles seen when I press down the centre of the head. Both heads are tensioned to the same pitch, then I use the resonant head to change the pitch of the note in order to get the drum at the pitch I prefer. I use multi tom kits generally, so you want a balanced interval from tom to tom. Bass drums, again, finger tight then just remove the creases and use the resonant head to dial in the pitch.
 
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I know most drummers give negative feedback at the mention of anything automatic about drum tuning, but I heard mixed results about the results of a drum torque keys. I've only been playing for 2 months and still can't tune my heads correctly. I know there is nothing better than tuning by ear, but I am getting frustrated.

Can any give me some advice on this situation? If you think I should get a torque key, what one? I have also heard that they don't work on diecast hoops. How could I find that out? I have a Pearl Export EXR series
Don't know if you just want to try the drum dial, it is cheap and it works.
Because tuning is keeping consistent tension (read mostly equal) in all rods. The DD helps you achieve that with ease, and it even gives you suggested tension numbers for each drum.
Of course you can use less or more depending on what particular sound you are looking for:
Less tension= more lower end tone, less higher end and of course more tension= less lower end more higher end tone.

For example say: the Drum Dial tells you to use 60 for a 10 inch tom's batter head and 65 for the resonant head, those numbers would give you a very nice sounding tom even with a super cheap tom and super cheap head.
You could alter those numbers up or down to tune closer to what you like.
As long as you keep the same number for all rods you should be very well in tune.
If you want to take it a step further (unnecessary but you can) use an app that can "listen" to your drum and give you a sample of a tuned drum so you can match to that. (I wouldn't do that because that is going to entail you knowing more about tuning that simply using the Drum Dial). But I guess that is the point, for you to learn how to listen to what is tuned and what is not.

* I can't remember of the top of my head what numbers DD recommends for toms so that number was just used to illustrate the example.
 
I know this thread is a million years old, and the OP apparently long gone, but my answer is perennially pertinent. Yes, tuning can be very difficult to master, with a lot of confusing details and options. But it’s part of the job. Watch videos, ask questions, then knuckle down and learn it!
 
Don't know if you just want to try the drum dial, it is cheap and it works.
Because tuning is keeping consistent tension (read mostly equal) in all rods. The DD helps you achieve that with ease, and it even gives you suggested tension numbers for each drum.
Of course you can use less or more depending on what particular sound you are looking for:
Less tension= more lower end tone, less higher end and of course more tension= less lower end more higher end tone.

For example say: the Drum Dial tells you to use 60 for a 10 inch tom's batter head and 65 for the resonant head, those numbers would give you a very nice sounding tom even with a super cheap tom and super cheap head.
You could alter those numbers up or down to tune closer to what you like.
As long as you keep the same number for all rods you should be very well in tune.
If you want to take it a step further (unnecessary but you can) use an app that can "listen" to your drum and give you a sample of a tuned drum so you can match to that. (I wouldn't do that because that is going to entail you knowing more about tuning that simply using the Drum Dial). But I guess that is the point, for you to learn how to listen to what is tuned and what is not.

* I can't remember of the top of my head what numbers DD recommends for toms so that number was just used to illustrate the example.
 
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