Restoration of my Sonor Force 2001

Thank you Andy!!

Hopefully I won't have to set up my sq2 in the club on saturday night....

Thanks a lot for all your help and suggestions guys!
Hmm, not so sure David.

I've just discussed this with Dean. Are your shells cross laminated (each ply grain running in a different direction), vertical ply, or horizontal ply? If they're cross laminated, then there's not a lot that can be done to "shrink" them. It's not that viable with the other orientations either :( Nor should you consider "pulling them in" with compression (straps, etc). Essentially, the benefit of ply, & especially cross laminated ply, is it's stability. It's therefore very difficult to move it once it's set in place. If putting heads on, & tensioning them whilst keeping them in a warm environment doesn't work, then you'll have to consider taking some thickness out of the outer layer of the shell at each end, down to just below the flesh hoop (allowing for tension distance). Do you have a routing table? If not, then it's best to take them to someone who knows what they're doing. Depending on where the bearing edge peak sits, you may also need to consider reworking the edges at the same time. Sorry mate - a bummer I know, but it's absolutely worth saving the lovely work you've already done, & going the extra mile to finish the job. If you can afford the time, leave the shells with heads on in a warm environment for as long as you can, but be careful to watch for any negative affect on the veneer.

Good luck David.
 
Hmm, not so sure David.

I've just discussed this with Dean. Are your shells cross laminated (each ply grain running in a different direction), vertical ply, or horizontal ply? If they're cross laminated, then there's not a lot that can be done to "shrink" them. It's not that viable with the other orientations either :( Nor should you consider "pulling them in" with compression (straps, etc). Essentially, the benefit of ply, & especially cross laminated ply, is it's stability. It's therefore very difficult to move it once it's set in place. If putting heads on, & tensioning them whilst keeping them in a warm environment doesn't work, then you'll have to consider taking some thickness out of the outer layer of the shell at each end, down to just below the flesh hoop (allowing for tension distance). Do you have a routing table? If not, then it's best to take them to someone who knows what they're doing. Depending on where the bearing edge peak sits, you may also need to consider reworking the edges at the same time. Sorry mate - a bummer I know, but it's absolutely worth saving the lovely work you've already done, & going the extra mile to finish the job. If you can afford the time, leave the shells with heads on in a warm environment for as long as you can, but be careful to watch for any negative affect on the veneer.

Good luck David.

Hi Andy,

thank you for the answer and discussing with Dean!

I'm pretty sure the shells are not cross-laminated. They're made in china and as far as I know they haven't built cross laminated shells back then.. From the inside it looks like they're vertical ply.
I will leave the heads on till saturday and press both thumbs the shells will have moved back..
Since my shells are (to 99%) not cross-laminated, should I try "pulling them in"?

Strange fact btw:
My 8" tom which is a force 2000 drum (made in Germany) and my bassdrum which is a custom maple shell which I bought later (because my original bassdrum had to much blisters) are perfectly in shape, the heads sit pretty good!


Thanks a lot again!!
 
Ok I'll try that this evening..

One more question.. I need to measure the inside from the shell. Shall I take the largest or smallest size I get for the diameter of my wood plate?
In theory, you should take the average of the two, but of course, that depends on how much of each extreme measure is present. I'd start at a measure somewhere just under the largest measure then shave down until it fits with some force applied. From that point, reduce as appropriate, byt again, be very careful not to stress the veneer/lacquer!
 
In theory, you should take the average of the two, but of course, that depends on how much of each extreme measure is present. I'd start at a measure somewhere just under the largest measure then shave down until it fits with some force applied. From that point, reduce as appropriate, byt again, be very careful not to stress the veneer/lacquer!

Ok, great!

I'll report back!!!
 
David, are you removing the lugs to perform the pressure of the shells? The screws inside the shell will have some thickness, or are you making some grooves on the wood before inserting where the screws are showing?

Good luck, fingers crossed, this will work.
 
Friends,

I just tried out my 10" drum to see what it sounds like when the shell is so de-formed..
Haven't had any success with pressing them back yet..

This is what it sounds like:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/17340676/tom_10_test.mp3

I have to say... Actually, it doesn't sound SO bad??
2 tunings: one very low, second one a bit higher..
Not bad ay all actually David. Better at the lower tuning. There's hope my friend :)
 
Phew! - good to hear the shells responded :) A well glued wrap is as much a part the shell construction as any outer ply layer. Removing it can alter the "support" provided by the wrap, & allow the shell to find it's own way. Doesn't always happen of course, but it's not uncommon.

How did the gig go David?
 
Phew! - good to hear the shells responded :) A well glued wrap is as much a part the shell construction as any outer ply layer. Removing it can alter the "support" provided by the wrap, & allow the shell to find it's own way. Doesn't always happen of course, but it's not uncommon.

How did the gig go David?

Thanks Andy and of course thanks for your help! Thanks to everybody actually!

The gig went pretty good! We filmed a few sections for "promo video" - as soon as I have it, I will upload it!
 
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