Gretsch Mid 70s Restoration Project

I cannot see it close up but the color they are now in the pics looks awesome IMO and screams Gretsch. Is it all scratched up or something?? I don't get it?
 
There is nothing wrong with the bearing edges and the kit is in perfect playing condition.
The shells are thin mahogany.
The drums show normal wear and tear for being over 40 years old.
I could gig anywhere with this kit tonight and be proud of it.
I have just been thinking about perhaps making some changes.
I am a bit tired of the dark stain. That is the main thing that I want to change.
Nothing has been written in stone and I haven't committed to dong anything yet.

The round edges do make the drums powerful and deep sounding.
These drums will rumble the walls with no problem.
You can feel the bass drum in your chest even while playing lightly.
 
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There is nothing wrong with the bearing edges and the kit is in perfect playing condition.
The drums show normal wear and tear for being over 40 years old.
I could gig anywhere with this kit tonight and be proud of it.
I have just been thinking about perhaps making some changes.
I am a bit tired of the dark stain. That is the main thing that I want to change.
Nothing has been written in stone and I haven't committed to dong anything yet.

The round edges do make the drums powerful and deep sounding.
These drums will rumble the walls with no problem.
You can feel the bass drum in your chest even while playing lightly.
Bob, I really wouldn't mess with the edges. There's a couple of reasons for me saying this. First, you may not like the change in sound. It's clear you're in love with the sound as it is, & those edges are certainly a big part of the drum's character. 2nd, cutting into a timber that has aged in that shape over decades, can sometimes release stresses that have been contained organically over time. It's not likely that it will cause warpage, but it's possible, & IMO, not worth the risk.

I get your desire to change the finish. If it were me, I wouldn't, but as I know you don't subscribe to the wrap making a sonic difference, I say go for it. Think of it as a "boob job" for your favourite mistress!
 

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Harry, your drums are maple at heart. Mine are dark mahogany.
Mine will stay dark if I sand them.
I have drilled through these shells to add the lugs to the once concert rack toms.
The shells are dark throughout.
 
I get being tired of the color. I tire of my dark drums too sometimes. Not sure why you are considering changing to tubes, but if you could find some with the same hole spacing, why not. If you cant, and have to re drill, I would absolutely go with 6 lugs on the rack toms. I really don't like the 5 lug thing. I wouldn't touch the edges either, not until you wrap it. I bet the wrap will change the sound enough. Make sure the wrap is far enough below the edges so as not to make your heads fit too tight. You probably know this because you are very mechanically inclined. Smart even lol. If after you wrap it and you are still not happy, only then would I consider recutting the edges.
 
Please don't recut the edges! One day I will get thirty degree rounded edges, don't make me come over there!
 
So if you cut 45 deg. edges on a new Gretsch kit will it cease to be a Gretsch? Does that make the name badge a liar?

I say re-cut em'! The Devil take these purists and their drum snobbery. My newest custom snare had a 45 edge with a roundover. Plenty of attack but still a good warm sound from that shell.

You'll want to find yourself a good drum guy. Mine is named Kevin but you can call yours whatever you want. Talk the project over with them and they'll be able to look the kit over and give you suggestions on what'll work best. I'd really suggest against cutting the edges yourself.

You are kidding, right? I meant the sound would be altered. Not the appearance. Good lord boy. I am beginning to think you are Crazy8"s in disquise.
 
Definitely before. Don't worry - he's just friends with him. That's no crime.

He's also far too coherent to be Kevin again.
 
Actually, I vote for red sparkle. Champagne seems a little too nebulous - like it doesn't know if it should be red, or pink (or brown depending on which one you get). And the black inside can be seen on Yamaha Recording Customs - very nice touch, I think.

But what's all this talk about changing out the lugs and everything? At that point with all that work and buying of parts, you could just get a new kit. I would leave it with the hardware you have.
 
In case any of you are wondering, Duncan is not losing it. He replied to my post (in record time) but I deleted it because it was stupid.
 
In case any of you are wondering, Duncan is not losing it. He replied to my post (in record time) but I deleted it because it was stupid.

I'm losing it alright but it wasn't necessarily evident in that post!

Also, if you're drilling be very careful. I got drill-happy this evening and wasn't entirely accurate. I was installing bass drum spurs onto my 16" Pearl bass drum and floor tom legs on my 14" Tamburo tom. Well, I had to enlarge a couple of the holes because my drilling wasn't great. I should've used the other drill that adjusts speed in relation to how hard you pull the trigger so I could've been more accurate - but no!

So there's some advice. If you're going to drill holes measure at least six times and make sure you're using a drill with variable speed! Starting slowly and using pilot holes is definitely the way forward.
 
And if you really want to be extra extra careful....drill co-pilot holes for your pilot holes too :)
 
So there's some advice. If you're going to drill holes measure at least six times and make sure you're using a drill with variable speed! Starting slowly and using pilot holes is definitely the way forward.

That's why I don't allow myself with a drill anywhere near my drums.

GD, yes I was kidding. I guess I was a little generous with your sense of humor. You know damn well I'm not Kevin.
 
Drilling into a drum shell is a challenge.
Anytime that you are drilling into something that is round and made from hardwood there is a risk of mis-drilling the hole.
I have drilled many drums in my time and I have had to elongate more than one hole.
A sharp center punch is the best way to start the hole before drilling the small pilot hole.

One trick that I learned is to hold the hardware that you are drilling the hole for in place on the drum shell. Hit the lug, (or whatever it is that you are mounting) with a rubber hammer. The lug will leave marks where the holes should be. Center punch in the marks and then drill. It really works!
 
Harry, your drums are maple at heart. Mine are dark mahogany.
Mine will stay dark if I sand them.
I have drilled through these shells to add the lugs to the once concert rack toms.
The shells are dark throughout.

All you have to do, if you wanna different wood finish, is the same thing DW, and all the other companies that sell "exotic" wood finishes do ... use a wood veneer. It's no different than wrapping the drums in a plastic wrap. Personally ... I'd go with the Carpathian Elm Burl ... but that's just me ... http://www.aitwood.com/StoreFront.A...on=FLEXBURL&wDesc=Flexible Burl Veneer Sheets
Me, not a big fan of plastic wrap ... and the wood veneer is a sweet way to go to make non-virgin drums virgin again (once you dowel and plug all the holes).​
 
Thanks for the link harry.
I did think of that a while back.
I decided to go with a wrap because I intend on gigging with the kit.
I haven't taken it out in years and I figured that I would use it if it was wrapped.

I just opened my emails and someone has inquired about buying the kit.
If this buyer doesn't work out I will take it off craigs.
 
Champagne seems a little too nebulous - like it doesn't know if it should be red, or pink (or brown depending on which one you get).

That's exactly what I like about Champagne Sparkle! In natural light it looks quite pink, but it looks peach indoors. It goes crazy under stage lights, and lusters unlike any other, because of the presence of both copper and silver flake. It's a nice combination of classy and flashy.

WMP is a great choice, too, and I like some of the new black oyster wraps I've seen lately as well.

Bob, your kit is a great candidate for a re-wrap, but you might make sure that someone can install the grommets in the badges properly once re-wrapped. The grommets on most Gretsch kits (other than RB) are quite small and hard to find, and the right size grommeting tool is especially hard to find. You might consider making your own grommets with brass tubing and a ball peen hammer. Time consuming stuff. If your buyer comes through, I would pull the trigger on a new kit, and save yourself lots of hassle.
 

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