Drum sizes and resonance

I populate both heads eat to just proposition immobility and appeal over. These tiny drums can heel up tidy pronto, but if they're complete ethical, they can fit-in with their whopping siblings in wait kinship and acquire, though the bang ability be a bit less because of it's balanced situation to the mountainous, I mightiness middling resign the apiece stress rod in a star-like itinerary, molding the drumfish over and do the synoptic to the displace perversion.
 
karfin55 said:
I populate both heads eat to just proposition immobility and appeal over. These tiny drums can heel up tidy pronto, but if they're complete ethical, they can fit-in with their whopping siblings in wait kinship and acquire, though the bang ability be a bit less because of it's balanced situation to the mountainous, I mightiness middling resign the apiece stress rod in a star-like itinerary, molding the drumfish over and do the synoptic to the displace perversion.
Click to expand...

I'm so sorry, but I could not help but laugh at this whole thing ahahaha.
 
I populate both heads eat to meet proposal immobility and postulation over. These tiny drums can angle up fastidious pronto, but if they're finish right, they can fit-in with their whopping siblings in wait relationship and evolve, though the rush power be a bit inferior because of it's counterbalanced condition to the mountainous, I strength middling leave the apiece inflection rod in a star-like guidebook, ornament the drumfish over and do the same to the exclude sex.
 
My 8" resonates every bit as much as my 10" or 12", and I even had to take the classic clear off the batter side and put a studio x on it to control it the same as the rest of my toms. But you must also remember that when Peavey built the radial pro drums they built them with the ideal depth for the size and 2.3 mm shell thickness for resonance without odd harmonic overtones. The 8" is 8.5" deep, the 10" is 9" deep, the 12" is 10" deep, the 14" is 12" deep and the 16" is 14" deep.
 
Last edited:
i tune all my toms the same, finger tight the lugs then at a 1/2 turn at a time i take them to 1 full turn then tap test and tune the reso to the highest pitch lug and the batter to the lowest pitch lug and it works out that the size and depth of each tom gives them nice even steps from the highest tom to the lowest.
 
That's more or less what I've been doing, but with not much difference between res and batter. Might explain a few things. Thanks.
 
Buddy Rich tuned his top and bottom heads the same then after playing the top head would stretch giving a slightly lower pitch, i just find it takes a lot longer for the newer heads to stretch so its easier to tune the top head just a bit lower at the start, and it is just a bit lower barley just enough to hear the difference. BTW the heads i use are classic clear resos and studio x batters.
 
keep it simple said:
Dear friend, you're coming up against a problem that many face, & also fighting against plain physics. 8" toms are little b&^%rds to get right, & even when you do "crack the code", they will never deliver the family soundscape you crave.

I have quite a bit of experience in both tuning & designing 8" toms. Sustain & shell tone are eternal challenges. Put simply, the heads don't have enough mass to offer much in the way of sustain. That's not just a head thickness thing (although increasing head thickness can help sit them in with larger toms), it's a head diameter thing mainly. When you strike a drum head, it's response isn't linear. Waves run across & around the head, almost as if it's a liquid. The close proximity of the edges of an 8" effectively chokes off natural amplification & reaction of those waves.

Even though I say so myself (ahem), I have the best sounding 8" toms I've ever heard, yet I'm not satisfied with them either. An 8" tom should really be regarded as an accent piece, rather than a fully signed up member of the kit tom family. Think in those terms, & your goals will be more in reach. You can help by moving to a heavier single ply head, using the same head both top & bottom, & tuning both heads to exactly the same pitch. 10mil Evans G+ is a good starting point.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

Like the explanation but what would you say to someone who bought a DW Jazz kit but won't put coated heads on because he hates the sound of coated heads? Ok... that guy is me... and everyone around me says that a Jazz kit (Maple - Maple gum) should only be played with coated heads otherwise it won't sound good at all... I don't want to spend a fortune trying everything out there... Already I thought I had found what I was hoping for with AmbX heads but... NOT! I know it's a question of tastes but besides that....????
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top