Wrapping with wood veneer??

Old Dog new Cans

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So, it's not terribly different from wrapping with delmar, however my question is about the best adhesive. I have a very good quality wood glue I was considering. I saw a video where a guy COMPLETELY covered the wood veneer with glue and clamped it. Worked well. But I also see "Woodweld" contact cement type stuff being used. The peeps in this particular video is not applying the adhesive everywhere. Just in strips.

I'm looking for opinions or experiences from those who have wrapped with wood veneer. Thanks
 
Since no other responses...
My drums have unfinished stained veneer on them, came that way used. They sound by tapping lightly to be adhered with no hollidays. Couldn't tell you with what type though.
 
What are you gluing it to? Wood or a vinyl wrap?? If it is wood use TiteBond 2 wood glue. It doesn't have a real quick set up time and you can rolll it on then push out any excess. Will stay on forever.
 
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Actually it is quite a bit different in my opinion. Laminating to a cylinder requires the use of pressure rollers because of the nature of wood. Wood has what are called compressive strength properties because of the grain that a continuous plastic wrap is not bothered by. So to properly glue it down and eliminate all the minute little wrinkles requires using a lot of pressure.
 
Actually it is quite a bit different in my opinion. Laminating to a cylinder requires the use of pressure rollers because of the nature of wood. Wood has what are called compressive strength properties because of the grain that a continuous plastic wrap is not bothered by. So to properly glue it down and eliminate all the minute little wrinkles requires using a lot of pressure.

YES. This is correct.

Suppose you have a flat wood table. And you want to glue down some thin wood veneer onto the top of the table. Suppose the top of the wood table has been sanded down to raw wood. If you use a water based glue like Titebond or Elmers wood glue, the veneer will wrinkle unless a great amount of pressure is applied evenly across the entire table top. So imagine how difficult it will be to apply wood veneer in this same manner to a round cylinder (drum).

I think using a non water based contact cement would be a much better choice. And still you would need to apply some even pressure across the entire surface as you apply the veneer.

.
 
Brush white glue on both sides liberally.
Wait until it's almost dried, or most of the white is gone.
Use a hot iron to activate the glue and it will hold well.

Or, you can use the same type of heat activated glue that the countertop companies use for the edging. It works the same way.

I recovered a Pearl Rhythm Traveller set with a custom veneer and it worked perfectly.

Vertical grain is easier by covering in partial sheets.

People on the Sonor board recover their drums like this.


This guy does it the professional way.
 
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YES. This is correct.

Suppose you have a flat wood table. And you want to glue down some thin wood veneer onto the top of the table. Suppose the top of the wood table has been sanded down to raw wood. If you use a water based glue like Titebond or Elmers wood glue, the veneer will wrinkle unless a great amount of pressure is applied evenly across the entire table top. So imagine how difficult it will be to apply wood veneer in this same manner to a round cylinder (drum).

I think using a non water based contact cement would be a much better choice. And still you would need to apply some even pressure across the entire surface as you apply the veneer.

.
If you make a mistake with contact cement, you are doomed. With yellow glue, and not an excessive amount, you can move the veneer around for a few minutes before it dries. Once the veneer is on, you can roll the drum on a flat surcase and squeeze out the excess. If allowed to dry properly the small amount of water in the glue at this point should not hurt. Paint the glue on with a brush so that it is very thin. The glue will dry harder than the wood it is adhered to. Titebond 2, is water resistant, and will help in any humid area to stay dry. You can also find circular clamps or use cloth like tournaqets to keep the veneer tight. The hardware will also hold the veneer in place. A table top does not have lugs or hardware to hold it in place. With all of the hardware it is not necessary to apply glue to the entire piece of veneer just like vinyl wraps. Glue the beginning, wrap using a rolling action, then about halfway around, then at the over lap. You can use a srip of wood to bridge the shell and only clamp the two edges to keep it in place.
 
What are you gluing it to? Wood or a vinyl wrap?? If it is wood use TiteBond 2 wood glue. It doesn't have a real quick set up time and you can rolll it on then push out any excess. Will stay on forever.

I have a blank Keller maple shell that I will be building into a snare. So, wood veneer to wood shell.

Man, a lot of great posts here. Making me re-think a little.

The post regarding the pressure rollers to make sure the veneer adheres properly. . .Now, I've seen it done without. However, NO follow-up videos to say whether the veneer did in fact glue solidly. I have a bagful of clamps that I've used on past wrap jobs. This is how I'd go about it if I do in fact get the veneer.

Alright guys. I already picked up a bottle of Titebond II a few months back. I just wasn't sure if I wanted to simply do a "finish" on the keller, or add a wrap or veneer.
 
What is wrong with the finish as it came from Keller, or do you just want another grain.
 
What is wrong with the finish as it came from Keller, or do you just want another grain.

Yeah exactly. I was just wanting to do something a little different. I can get a nice mahogany veneer for a twenty. Chances are good that I'll just finish the maple. But I'm definitely wanting to do something with a veneer in the future.
 
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