Won a steambent shell - how am I going to configure it?

jornthedrummer

Silver Member
I just won a 6.75x14" Vaughncraft steambent shell on ebay.

Maple-Cocobolo-Quilted Maple-Cocobolo-Maple single-ply, steambent drum shell with Maple re-rings installed

Wall thickness approx. 0.2"

I am a bit exited because this will be my first steambent as well as DIY snare.

I am going to have Vaughncraft cut the bearing edges and snarebed.
What is your proposal for the bearing edge angles/configuration?

Otherwise I am thinking:
- 20 strand Puresound
- Evans G1 coated/Hazy 300
- DW Mag Throw off
- Double sided center mounted lugs
- 8 lug die cast hoops on both sides.

I am looking for a funky, snappy, R&B kind of sound for this snare.

I would appreciate your comments to the configuration.

What about coating - what do you recommend?

thx

jorn
 

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porter

Platinum Member
I'm sure others more knowledgeable than I will be here soon to recommend things, but I'd recommend against the MAG throwoff. I have one on my DIY snare and it's super heavy and sticks out a lot. Good action but a pain otherwise. If I had to do it again I'd get a Trick throwoff. Good luck.
 

jornthedrummer

Silver Member
Thanks abapicaltaenia,

I got 2 other snares with Trick throw-offs and its a great product.
I wanted to try the DW just to try it -)

I however also want to keep the mass of the hardware down on this snare so the aluminium Trick could be the better choice.

Anyone else?
 
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jornthedrummer

Silver Member
GRUNTERSDAD,

The idea was to keep the hardware mass down. Thats also why I want to go with center mounted double lugs.

The die cast hoops is a bit against this philosophy, but they can be changed.
 

MikeM

Platinum Member
I however also want to keep the mass of the hardware down on this snare so the aluminium Trick could be the better choice.

Anyone else?
I like low mass stuff myself. I've always thought Trick strainers looked like tumors that have given me a surgeon's desire to remove them wherever I see them! Why are they so obtrusive looking? Mag throws look better but are still pretty massive. I don't know what other options are available, but I can't imagine that Tricks and Mags are the only available high-end after-market throws out there ...
 

porter

Platinum Member
Oh, as well- S-Hoops are great hoops that are basically a middle ground between 2.3mm triple flange and die-cast hoops. They might be a good option for low-mass stuff.
 

MikeM

Platinum Member
Oh, as well- S-Hoops are great hoops that are basically a middle ground between 2.3mm triple flange and die-cast hoops. They might be a good option for low-mass stuff.
Ah, +1 on that. I love S-Hoops and use them on both my snare batters. I'd put them on my toms, too, but I don't think mic clips work with them and a lot of clubs around here use those clips. I'd hate to show up at a club only to find out that I can't mic anything up ... I guess I should be worried about not being able to mic my snare, by that line of reasoning :-/
 

porter

Platinum Member
Ah, +1 on that. I love S-Hoops and use them on both my snare batters. I'd put them on my toms, too, but I don't think mic clips work with them and a lot of clubs around here use those clips. I'd hate to show up at a club only to find out that I can't mic anything up ... I guess I should be worried about not being able to mic my snare, by that line of reasoning :-/
You know, I never thought of that. That would be an issue to consider.
 

MikeM

Platinum Member
You know, I don't know that for sure, tbh. Now thinking about it, it would be worth taking the time to find out for sure. Then I would know whether to bring a backup snare with a hoop that works with them, or if it's okay to put them on my toms.

Yeah, definitely worth finding out.

The other hoops I really like are the Yamaha die cast hoops, which are made out of aluminum so they're not nearly as heavy as zinc and don't mute nearly as much, and as far as I know, they're the only ones who make them. They come up from time to time on eBay and usually go for $120-$140 for a 10-hole pair. I know they make an 8-hole version because that's what the Dave Weckl snare uses, but then again, Yamaha discontinued all signature series snares, so who knows ...
 

jornthedrummer

Silver Member
Andy likes S-hoops too. I have Shure and Audix microphone clips. Need to check If any one of them might work with S-hoops.
 

Soupy

Silver Member
You can get 3.0mm triple flange hoops from DrumFactoryDirect. Shouldn't be any issue with mic clips, they sound great, and also occupy that functional space between cast and 2.3mm triple flange.

If you want a lightweight strainer look at some of the more generic ones from a gibraltar, Worldmax, etc. That Trick might be aluminum, but it's a giant block of aluminum.

I'd also think about tube lugs; they have pretty small shell contact, which also matters.
 

keep it simple

Platinum Member
I just won a 6.75x14" Vaughncraft steambent shell on ebay.

Maple-Cocobolo-Quilted Maple-Cocobolo-Maple single-ply, steambent drum shell with Maple re-rings installed

jorn
The lower band looks more like wenge to me, but that could be the lighting. If that is wenge, then I'm struggling a little on the shell's likely character. A mixture of maple & cocobolo is fairly straightforward. Concentration on the midrange with the cocobolo adding some complexity. Wenge starts to confuse matters, but would likely add some bite. I must confess, when it comes to steam bent shells, I think they show their talent as a single species shell. It's all about a defined voice. When looking to specify a build, you get by far the best results when everything is designed to highlight the shell's character, so you can guess why I'm hesitant to suggest a specification.

Anyhow, it sure looks a nice shell. I'll work with the generic shell construction character :) I'd shoot for a very soft batter edge. A 45 degree counter cut with a full roundover to the outside for maximum shell contact. The bearing edge peak around R3 (3mm radius). Resonant side the same but with a much sharper R1 peak. That configuration will give you good head to shell contact, & good head control without resorting to a muffled head. With those edges, & thinking in terms of the sound you want, I'd go for die cast hoops. Essentially, you want the shell to do the work, but the heads to be quite controlled.

I echo the advise on tube lugs. Far better tension range than a single centre lug, especially if you want a tight batter. Go for the best quality you can get.

As for finishing, my preference would be a few layers of good quality wax. Buff well between each coat.

Good luck :)
 

jornthedrummer

Silver Member
The lower band looks more like wenge to me, but that could be the lighting. If that is wenge, then I'm struggling a little on the shell's likely character. A mixture of maple & cocobolo is fairly straightforward. Concentration on the midrange with the cocobolo adding some complexity. Wenge starts to confuse matters, but would likely add some bite. I must confess, when it comes to steam bent shells, I think they show their talent as a single species shell. It's all about a defined voice. When looking to specify a build, you get by far the best results when everything is designed to highlight the shell's character, so you can guess why I'm hesitant to suggest a specification.

Anyhow, it sure looks a nice shell. I'll work with the generic shell construction character :) I'd shoot for a very soft batter edge. A 45 degree counter cut with a full roundover to the outside for maximum shell contact. The bearing edge peak around R3 (3mm radius). Resonant side the same but with a much sharper R1 peak. That configuration will give you good head to shell contact, & good head control without resorting to a muffled head. With those edges, & thinking in terms of the sound you want, I'd go for die cast hoops. Essentially, you want the shell to do the work, but the heads to be quite controlled.

I echo the advise on tube lugs. Far better tension range than a single centre lug, especially if you want a tight batter. Go for the best quality you can get.

As for finishing, my preference would be a few layers of good quality wax. Buff well between each coat.

Good luck :)
Andy you never disappoint -)
Thank you for your detailed answer.
I agree that cutting up a single ply defeats the purpose a bit, but this is my first and probably not last steambent. So I will be starting here.

I will wait another half a day or so to wait for others to respond and then I will be posting the final configuration tomorrow.
It will take a month or 2 to get all the parts as they would need to be ordered from US.
Soundfile when its ready!
 

jornthedrummer

Silver Member
Well I am sure you guys want to see the outcome. After I got all the parts I realized the drum did not have a snarebed. Making a snarebed is something I have no experience with and I left the project and forgot all about it.
Then I came to know about the Malaysian drummer and tech John James.
He just finished putting the drum together for me - this is the result:

I think the drum turned out great.

Sound and video link:
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10153338486648747&set=vb.539468746&type=2&theater
 

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