Yeah, you're right, measuring the time across the whole song, it fluctuates. I've now played to it a bunch since I originally asked, and I'm getting several grooves to work with it now. Including several straight 4/4 grooves, and a shuffle. As someone was saying earlier, I'm just focusing on the banjo guy/gal. I'm sure in person getting in time with them will be much easier. Also in person I'd be able to hear the bass player much better. Thanks a ton for all the replies!It's a relatively quick 4. Complicating matters, the time on the track is far from even... It's a rather organic recording, and you're not going to be able to line it up to any kind of grid or click.
Listen for where the music repeats on the 1, and count based off that, you should be able to pick up the feel you'd have to play that in.
Personally, I'm hearing a pretty basic beat with sloshy high hats on the quarter notes.