Ludwig 1966 Challenger 12x15 Marching Snare Drum

tamadrm

Platinum Member
whoops! Did I miscalculate the year? I think I did, sorry. I used this chart here...
http://www.ludwig-drums.com/features/hoamld/serialnumbers.php
I guess mine's off the chart (sorry!)... So they went back to the keystone badges, I see. Confusing. It says Monroe NC by the way.

I tried the link, it's working and it's set to public.

No rings, no white paint. Looks like it could be maple or birch or both. How do I learn which it actually is?

I had a hard time finding a perfectly flat surface, but I finally used a new piece of Birch 3/4" plywood. There's no light escaping. The edges seal tightly.

The drum shell is at least or about 1/8" out of round. The diameter varies from exactly 15" to just over 14-13/16"... What can be done about that?
Serial numbers don't work with Monroe keystone badges.They only work with 60's keystone ,and Blue/Olive badge till 79.The white interiors would indicate a drum was made before 69.

The shell should be 7-9 ply maple/poplar,mostly maple,depending on the year it was made.Putting a shell back in round might be possible with a mold.Being 1/8 to 3/16 out of round on a 15" drum isn't terrible,so given your bearing edges are in decent shape,the rim you say is bent is probably the culptit.

When you put the heads on ,can you spin it around the drum,or does it get rub tightly on the shell?If it touches just a little or spins freely,you're in good shape.

You actually can fix that rim by bending it slowly over the edge of a table.Take your time and it should go back into shape.

Steve B
 

FNG

Junior Member
whoops! Did I miscalculate the year? I think I did, sorry. I used this chart here...
http://www.ludwig-drums.com/features/hoamld/serialnumbers.php
I guess mine's off the chart (sorry!)... So they went back to the keystone badges, I see. Confusing. It says Monroe NC by the way.

I tried the link, it's working and it's set to public.

No rings, no white paint. Looks like it could be maple or birch or both. How do I learn which it actually is?

I had a hard time finding a perfectly flat surface, but I finally used a new piece of Birch 3/4" plywood. There's no light escaping. The edges seal tightly.

The drum shell is at least or about 1/8" out of round. The diameter varies from exactly 15" to just over 14-13/16"... What can be done about that?
 

tamadrm

Platinum Member
Hello!

I'm refurbishing an LF-CF125 that I picked up for $45 on Craigslist. It is 12 x 15 and seems in decent condition.
It has a gold keystone badge, serial 3160295 so it is apparently made in 1966.

It mostly just needs a new snare and an original snare butt. The existing P-87 Classic strainer is workable, just has a bent release lever, so I'll change that with a new brass bushing. I think the 10 lug hoops are thinner than the current 2.3mm replacements available, probably 1.99mm...One seems a little out of round, and they don't sit flat on a table, a little wobbly so I was thinking of replacing them.

Playing it before disassembly revealed major problems in sound. The bearing edges are pretty smooth, except for a couple minor dents and slight imperfections. On this drum the bearing edges are finished with varnish. Still trying to decide if I need to have them recut. Would a little light sanding on a couple ever-so-slightly uneven spots be a bad thing?

Looking online, this drum was described as 6 ply Birch, but that's highly unlikely for that year, right? Since it's not made of Mahogany like many other 1966 Ludwig snare drums seen in those old catalogs, I'm guessing that it's Maple. What do you think? I couldn't find any information on old marching snares online, just regular snare drums. Apparently the current Challenger models are 6 ply Birch...

Also, I'd be interested on a good source for reasonably priced parts and helpful advice on this project.

You can view this shell here: https://plus.google.com/photos/102669891105418414903/albums/5684399447308975969

Thanks very much for reading my post.
Hi..That serial number is way to high to be a 60's drum.The highest Ludwig went was 741000 on 60's keystone badges.Does your drum have a white painted interior and re rings or a clear maple interior with no re rings?Does the badge say Chigago or Monroe N.C.?The link you posted didn't work.

To check you bearing edges,remove the both rims and place the drum on a flat hard surface and shine a flashlight inside the drum.If you can see light bleeding out from the edge laying on the table,then you need to re cut the bearing edge.Even pros use a router table to recut the edge.Sanding is very innacurate,and you just may make the situation worse.

Measure the drum at several points to see if the shell is warped also,as that could make it hard to tune.

Steve B
 

FNG

Junior Member
Hello!

I'm refurbishing an LF-CF125 that I picked up for $45 on Craigslist. It is 12 x 15 and seems in decent condition.
It has a gold keystone badge, serial 3160295 so it is apparently made in 1966.

It mostly just needs a new snare and an original snare butt. The existing P-87 Classic strainer is workable, just has a bent release lever, so I'll change that with a new brass bushing. I think the 10 lug hoops are thinner than the current 2.3mm replacements available, probably 1.99mm...One seems a little out of round, and they don't sit flat on a table, a little wobbly so I was thinking of replacing them.

Playing it before disassembly revealed major problems in sound. The bearing edges are pretty smooth, except for a couple minor dents and slight imperfections. On this drum the bearing edges are finished with varnish. Still trying to decide if I need to have them recut. Would a little light sanding on a couple ever-so-slightly uneven spots be a bad thing?

Looking online, this drum was described as 6 ply Birch, but that's highly unlikely for that year, right? Since it's not made of Mahogany like many other 1966 Ludwig snare drums seen in those old catalogs, I'm guessing that it's Maple. What do you think? I couldn't find any information on old marching snares online, just regular snare drums. Apparently the current Challenger models are 6 ply Birch...

Also, I'd be interested on a good source for reasonably priced parts and helpful advice on this project.

You can view this shell here: https://plus.google.com/photos/102669891105418414903/albums/5684399447308975969

Thanks very much for reading my post.
 
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