Crushing Cymbals

[Breakdown0]

Hi there,
I've got a few problems with my Zildjian cymbals, because they often break.
I'm playing Zildjian cymbals for about 3 years and after 2 or something like that, they started to break. That time I didn't know things about over tighten and stuff. But after I got all my broken ones changed, I started to play different (f.e. playing with the tip of the stick and not with the shoulder). And here are my problems:
1. After my first Z-custom china broke I got a new one. I'm using chinas as "2nd rides" so for fast beats and so on. The cymbal didn't spin while I was hitting it. I tried to make it, but it didn't spin "regular". It made waves and went up and down. So I went on hitting one point.
It ripped on the middle of the camber. Question: How do I make it spin "regulary"? (The stand has got an angle of 90°)

2. My Hi Hat (Z - custom) was at the beginning overthightened. But then after probably a year I made it breath, but it spinned the whole time. It ripped at the edge of the cymbal.
So my 2nd question: Did the overthightening at the beginning any contribution to this crack or is it just the way I hit the Hi Hat?

[radiofriendlyunitshifter]

1. why do you want the cymbal to spin? and i'm guessing 'ripped' means 'cracked', correct?

2. probably both contributed to the demise of your hats. (i assume you have poor technique since your zildjian cymbals 'often break')

here (http://sabian.com/english/education/Edu_Cymbals.cfm?RI=9) are some helpful tips on technique when playing cymbals

[tooldrums1000]

Did you filp your china? If you tilt the china alittle bit so that when you it doesnt erect the other side. If you get a crack just file it down past the crack so that it will prevent the crack from getting any bigger in size. You could probably put some big felts on the china to make it stay were it is but you dont want to have to choke you cymbals. Probably you overtightning made your hats break. You shouldnt choke any of your cymbals NEVER! They need to be able to breath.

[Breakdown0]

To radio: Yes, "ripped" means "cracked" sorry for the wrong description.
1. I want my cymbals to spin so that I don't always hit the same point and make it (as I think the problem was) crack at this point. So there is a consistent pressure.

2. The way I hit it is exactly the way it's descripted by your link (Thanks anyway :) ).

And to Tools: No, I didn't flip my china. But how did you mean that sentence with "erect"?

[Skitch]

Hi there,
I've got a few problems with my Zildjian cymbals, because they often break.
I'm playing Zildjian cymbals for about 3 years and after 2 or something like that, they started to break. That time I didn't know things about over tighten and stuff. But after I got all my broken ones changed, I started to play different (f.e. playing with the tip of the stick and not with the shoulder). And here are my problems:
1. After my first Z-custom china broke I got a new one. I'm using chinas as "2nd rides" so for fast beats and so on. The cymbal didn't spin while I was hitting it. I tried to make it, but it didn't spin "regular". It made waves and went up and down. So I went on hitting one point.
It ripped on the middle of the camber. Question: How do I make it spin "regulary"? (The stand has got an angle of 90°)

2. My Hi Hat (Z - custom) was at the beginning overthightened. But then after probably a year I made it breath, but it spinned the whole time. It ripped at the edge of the cymbal.
So my 2nd question: Did the overthightening at the beginning any contribution to this crack or is it just the way I hit the Hi Hat?

If your china is pointing up and down (more vertical than horizontal) it probably won't spin much. It will turn where the heavier area or the cymbal is lower than the lighter areas.


Mike

http://www.mikemccraw.com
http://www.dominoretroplate.com

http://www.youtube.com/drummermikemccraw
http://www.myspace.com/drummermikemccraw

[radiofriendlyunitshifter]

To radio: Yes, "ripped" means "cracked" sorry for the wrong description.
1. I want my cymbals to spin so that I don't always hit the same point and make it (as I think the problem was) crack at this point. So there is a consistent pressure.

2. The way I hit it is exactly the way it's descripted by your link (Thanks anyway :) ).


hmmm... i've never heard of someone using that as a technique to keep their cymbals from cracking.

are you sure they're not overtightened?

because if you're playing them properly, they shouldn't be breaking at all.

[T.Underhill]

I honestly don't think having spinning cymbals is going to prevent cracking. Also the weight distribution on cymbals isn't precise science so they tend to want to stay in the same spot on the stand.

[d.c.drummer]

yeah, the whole spinning thing is fuzzy logic. what kind of sticks do you use, if they are excessivly heavy, that could lead to a problem..

[Steamer]

I honestly don't think having spinning cymbals is going to prevent cracking. Also the weight distribution on cymbal isn't precise science so they tend to want to stay in the same spot on the stand.

That's very true. Every cymbal i've owned over the last 35 or so years has always found it's own spot where it wants to sit on the stand right away.

[Steamer]

A little tip i'll pass along in regards to cymbal performance and care. When I recieve a new cymbal I make the inside of the bell hole as smooth as glass hence no chance of cymbal wear or binding on the cymbal stand sleave. All cymbals but mostly Zildjians i've noted have very sharp edge holes when punched out by a machine. What I do is start with a small piece of 240 grade sandpaper working in a circle in one direction I remove the sharp edges on both sides of the bell hole and any rough spots on the main part of the hole if encountered. I do the same thing again working in one circular direction with even finer sandpaper pieces well checking to see that the sharp binding edges are gone and the inner hole section is very smooth. I finish off with very fine emery cloth which leaves everything as smooth as fine glass and i'm done.

Not only does this extend the shelf life on cymbal stand sleaves it also lets the cymbals "float"on the stands free to move without binding causing stress or friction on the cymbal even when hit hard when mounted and hit properly.