HARDWARE DIY/MODS/REPAIRS THREAD

[Deathmetalconga]

INDEX OF OTHER HARDWARE MOD THREADS:

techristian plays mindblowing four-way foot patterns and created this cowbell mount (http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?p=481327#post481327)especially for right-foot playing
Tired of gangly stands? tbmills shows his OEM-quality chop job (http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41564) along with how-to steps
tbmills kickin' it with a very clean installation on an internal bass drum mic mount (http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?p=478005#post478005) along with a helpful tutorial
Fourstringdrums' clever and simple method to convert a cymbal stand to a secondary hihat stand (http://drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23459)
Glen Thomas' amazing homemade edrum trigger, foot percussion mount, foot-operated snare (http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?p=280285#post280285)
leo_battery wanted a double pedal so bad, he just made his own (http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8061&highlight=leo_battery)
Time Bandit's finely machined mini-stackers (http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?p=284967&posted=1#post284967)
GRUNTERSDAD, a true dipstick, shows ingenious method for non-slip grip coating (http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25351)
Limey and friends find the best way to mount/convert a 13-inch tom into a bass drum (http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26886)
GRUNTERSDAD chimes in with method for making your own chimes. (http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28640)
Junglelord shows his almighty gong drum (http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?p=342299#post342299), made from a standard bass drum and djembe stand.
Bobrovsky, the Russian with a giant drum set, created a cable-driven double pedal setup (http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?p=374877&posted=1#post374877) and a cable-driven gong striker. (http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?p=378370&posted=1#post378370)
bears_eating_drums had little cash but lots of ingenuity and came up with this unusual foot percussion mount (http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33686)
Someone patent this! VegasDrummer69 came up with a one-legged snare stand. (http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?p=396595#post396595)

I've always liked working with metal and tinkering. I like making my own custom drum hardware and discussing drum hardware and I see a lot of other people on this board like working on their own hardware as well. DIY projects save money and allow you to create drum set arrangements not possible with off-the-shelf hardware. You can see this hardware on my set at http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18719. If you have a hardware mod - even if it's humble duct tape - this is the place to share it. If your lock nut is stripped and you need help, hopefully you will find some help here. If you'd like to do something but you're not sure of how to proceed or what tools you'd need, this is also a place for answers.

I can tap, thread, cut, bend, weld, drill, roll rings and hoops and even do a little milling. However, my metalworking skills are very crude compared to what a professional machinst could do. But I am able to make my own custom stuff, do any repairs and my work has held up well to the abuse of drumming.

Below is a recent hardware project, a triple cymbal stacker. Most stackers keep your cymbals like five feet apart, or there is no offset. I used 1/4 inch steel rod, some extra-deep nuts, 8 mm bolts, a MIG welder and a few other items to make these stackers, which have about three inches of distance and offset. I can pick out the cymbals individually, or do a dramatic rake of all of them. Knurled Allen bolts keep the stackers from spinning loose. All washers are welded to the nuts and all felts are glued to the washers, minimizing the amount of small pieces to drop.

Stackers alone
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Cymbalstackers.jpg

Stackers with cymbals - bottom view
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Cymbalsstacked1.jpg

Stackers with cymbals - top view
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Cymbalsstacked2.jpg

[driver]

That is so so good. Great idea. Put your name on it before a company steals it!

[fourstringdrums]

Very nice. I wish I had the knowledge/tools to do stuff like that. The only modification I've ever done to hardware is this:

http://drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23459&highlight=closed+hi-hat

and this http://www.handidrummed.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15 (which I no longer use)

Both didn't require the skill that yours did, but it was a cheap solution none the less.

[Deathmetalconga]

Very nice. I wish I had the knowledge/tools to do stuff like that. The only modification I've ever done to hardware is this:

http://drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23459&highlight=closed+hi-hat

and this http://www.handidrummed.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15 (which I no longer use)

Both didn't require the skill that yours did, but it was a cheap solution none the less.

Great idea!

While your idea isn't technically hard, it is accessible to just about anyone and you showed a lot of ingenuity in figuring this out, especially since you don't do this a lot and used simple tools. I don't think a mod or DIY should require a flux-core wire-feed MIG welder to be good or useful (although it sure helps me sometimes!). In fact, simpler and cheaper is better. It's fun to use the fancy tools but I sometimes have to pull myself back and force myself to use the simplest approach possible, even if it involves nothing more than a razor and pliers.

Thanks for putting the link here. I bet there are a lot of other threads with a single DIY project that could/should be linked up.

[emmerson]

wow, i wish i could make something like that.

[Deathmetalconga]

BASS DRUM CRADLE:

I got a new custom drum kit with an 18-inch bass drum, ordered without spurs to minimize penetrations. I looked at all the stock options for raising the drum but couldn't find anything I liked. Either I'd have to drill a bunch of holes in the drum or I'd have to schlep around a 50-pound cradle.

So I used my hoop roller and welder to make my own cradles. I went to a local gasket maker and got this really thick neoprene to create clearance for the tuning bolts, then put Velcro on the bottom of the hoops and top of the cradles. I put scratchy Velcro on the bottom of each cradle so it grabs on to carpet. I love Velcro and use it for just about everything. One of the cradles has a "foot" welded on for the bass drum pedal clamp.

This works well. I can actually leave the cradles on when I put the drum in its Hardcase and the Velcro holds everything together. The steel flexes slightly, allowing just a little give and bounce as it suspends the drum. It's all painted dark silver/gray - chroming is way beyond anything I could do.

Front cradle on drum
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/FrontBDcradle.jpg

Rear cradle on drum
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/RearBDcradle.jpg

Cradles alone
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/BDcradles.jpg

[Deathmetalconga]

FOOT PERCUSSION HOLDER

For about 10 years, I used one of the enormous and heavy LP Gajate foot pedal mounts for percussion items. I noticed that I never did adjust it and it was a pain to carry around, being about the approximate size of a Scud launcher. So I thought to make my own out of a section of steel beam and some 3/8 inch rod. A bit of tapping and threading secure it to itself and the pedal.

While it is not at all adjustable, it doesn't matter because I raise or lower the beater for different size percussion items.

Bracket mounted to pedal
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Footpercussionholder-1.jpg

Tambourine mounted to bracket
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Foottambourine.jpg

LP block mounted to bracket
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Footblock.jpg

Cowbell mounted to bracket
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Footcowbell.jpg

[fourstringdrums]

FOOT PERCUSSION HOLDER

For about 10 years, I used one of the enormous and heavy LP Gajate foot pedal mounts for percussion items. I noticed that I never did adjust it and it was a pain to carry around, being about the approximate size of a Scud launcher. So I thought to make my own out of a section of steel beam and some 3/8 inch rod. A bit of tapping and threading secure it to itself and the pedal.

While it is not at all adjustable, it doesn't matter because I raise or lower the beater for different size percussion items.

Bracket mounted to pedal
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Footpercussionholder-1.jpg

Tambourine mounted to bracket
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Foottambourine.jpg

LP block mounted to bracket
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Footblock.jpg

Cowbell mounted to bracket
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Footcowbell.jpg

Awesome. And the total cost to make this vs. a Gajate?

[Deathmetalconga]

Awesome. And the total cost to make this vs. a Gajate?

I'm not sure about the materials cost. I go to the local scrap yard a couple of times a year and pick up odd pieces of metal as well as various size rod. Maybe a couple of dollars for these particular pieces and the bolts, including a couple of mounting rod prototypes that didn't work out. It took about three hours to make from start to finish, including perfecting the design and some brief trials. I like doing this kind of thing so the time isn't an expense anyway.

I think a Gajate is now around $89, at least for the original model. They have a revamped model that isn't quite so ginormous and that goes for around half that.

If you have a vise, hacksaw, tape measure, large pliers, propane torch and a file (just about every garage does), you could be doing some basic stuff like this, especially simple percussion mounts. Music shops sell chrome 3/8" rod but it's very expensive. You could get hot-rolled rod at the hardware store for much less and, with the tools above, you could bend it to your custom specs. If you add in a cheap $10 tap and die set from Slave Harbor Tools (www.harborfreight.com) you will be able to make an exponentially greater variety of mounts. If you like puttering and making things, this is just plain fun, as you know from the clever auxiliary hihat mount you came up with

My next post will be a simple percussion mount requiring only basic tools.

[fourstringdrums]

I'm not sure about the materials cost. I go to the local scrap yard a couple of times a year and pick up odd pieces of metal as well as various size rod. Maybe a couple of dollars for these particular pieces and the bolts, including a couple of mounting rod prototypes that didn't work out. It took about three hours to make from start to finish, including perfecting the design and some brief trials. I like doing this kind of thing so the time isn't an expense anyway.

I think a Gajate is now around $89, at least for the original model. They have a revamped model that isn't quite so ginormous and that goes for around half that.

If you have a vise, hacksaw, tape measure, large pliers, propane torch and a file (just about every garage does), you could be doing some basic stuff like this, especially simple percussion mounts. Music shops sell chrome 3/8" rod but it's very expensive. You could get hot-rolled rod at the hardware store for much less and, with the tools above, you could bend it to your custom specs. If you add in a cheap $10 tap and die set from Slave Harbor Tools (www.harborfreight.com (http://www.harborfreight.com)) you will be able to make an exponentially greater variety of mounts. If you like puttering and making things, this is just plain fun, as you know from the clever auxiliary hihat mount you came up with

My next post will be a simple percussion mount requiring only basic tools.

Hmm I may have to enlist you to make me a few things :)

[hammertone]

Hey Deathmetalconga,

Thanks for the excellent foot percussion bracket idea! I've been thinking about getting a gajate bracket for a while and the cost was a big drawback. The lack of bulk is a nice bonus too.

[Ozzy Biz]

I made a straight cymbal stand a few years back out of chromoly steel, braising all of the joins with an oxy. It worked well, but the folding legs died after a while, so I haven't seen it in a while.

[Deathmetalconga]

I made a straight cymbal stand a few years back out of chromoly steel, braising all of the joins with an oxy. It worked well, but the folding legs died after a while, so I haven't seen it in a while.

Wow, you do brazing. I'm too lazy to try gas welding, although I admire the neatness of gas welds. I use flux-core MIG welding which takes relatively little skill, but the drawback is the welds aren't as attractive.

Brazing is a whole other area to get into. How did the legs break? Unfortunately, stands are made of low-grade pot metal that is relatively soft and doesn't weld well.

www.terrasonus.com

[drozzy]

I've primarily done the little things,

- 4 Spurs on 16" Inch Virgin Bass Drum (acts as a riser)
- Butt end of stick and metal rod, making a natural sounding cowbell beater
- Self made muffling rings
- Pre-muffled bass drum beater
- Sympathetic vibration resistant snare wires.

I do plan on having a go at some larger things eventually, but its the little things that count.

[Shinx]

- Sympathetic vibration resistant snare wires.

I do plan on having a go at some larger things eventually, but its the little things that count.
How exactly did you do that? Sounds very interesting to me considering my (at the moment) horrible snare wires

Edit: Also, great idea for a thread DMC

[Ozzy Biz]

Wow, you do brazing. I'm too lazy to try gas welding, although I admire the neatness of gas welds. I use flux-core MIG welding which takes relatively little skill, but the drawback is the welds aren't as attractive.

Brazing is a whole other area to get into. How did the legs break? Unfortunately, stands are made of low-grade pot metal that is relatively soft and doesn't weld well.

www.terrasonus.com

Well, I'm about as good at MIG welding as a blind amputee with Parkinsons ;)

It was the joints at the base, I can't really remember what exactly happened. I think the rod that was used as the pivot on the folding legs (which was welded into place) bent or something and the leg was stuck. I remember that it was something that was fixable, but I was too lazy and decided the stand didn't work well enough, nor did I have a real need for it.

Brazing is great, it's s much stronger. About 3 years ago in school I made a big bike out of 1 1/4 inch tubing, and there was going to be so much stress on some joins that MIG welding may not hold, so I had to learn to braze. It also looks great, because the colour difference, and it doesn't get bubbles like MIG welding can.

The engineering course I'm staring at Uni has a team that builds and races a car in a national competition which I'm going to try and sign up for this year. They fabricate just about everything themselves except some components and things that need to be made from CNC billet aluminium.

And I'm not that ugly b*stard on the bike either....

Biz

[drozzy]

Shinx - search for 'droz's drum problems'

That details how i did it, mainly, clipping out the middle 6-8 strands of your snare wires. Same response, no buzz.

[Deathmetalconga]

Well, I'm about as good at MIG welding as a blind amputee with Parkinsons ;)

It was the joints at the base, I can't really remember what exactly happened. I think the rod that was used as the pivot on the folding legs (which was welded into place) bent or something and the leg was stuck. I remember that it was something that was fixable, but I was too lazy and decided the stand didn't work well enough, nor did I have a real need for it.

Brazing is great, it's s much stronger. About 3 years ago in school I made a big bike out of 1 1/4 inch tubing, and there was going to be so much stress on some joins that MIG welding may not hold, so I had to learn to braze. It also looks great, because the colour difference, and it doesn't get bubbles like MIG welding can.

The engineering course I'm staring at Uni has a team that builds and races a car in a national competition which I'm going to try and sign up for this year. They fabricate just about everything themselves except some components and things that need to be made from CNC billet aluminium.

And I'm not that ugly b*stard on the bike either....

Biz

Man, if you made your own bike frame with brazing, you have some serious skills. There are a few times when I would have preferred brazing, like for joining thin tubing that would be destroyed with welding, or joining two different metals. Brazing is excellent for all kinds of stuff.

I encourage you to share more of your drum hardware mods, or start getting busy with some - you obviously are at a high skill level and have access to some great tools.

www.terrasonus.com

[Deathmetalconga]

I've primarily done the little things,

- 4 Spurs on 16" Inch Virgin Bass Drum (acts as a riser)
- Butt end of stick and metal rod, making a natural sounding cowbell beater
- Self made muffling rings
- Pre-muffled bass drum beater
- Sympathetic vibration resistant snare wires.

I do plan on having a go at some larger things eventually, but its the little things that count.

Sounds neat - how about some photos? I am always interested in seeing how other people do things.

www.terrasonus.com

[drozzy]

Pretty much everything is in the thread i mentioned before, my drum sounf problem solving thread, and the four spurs drum is in my baby gigkit thread.

Haven't got pics up fo the new cowbell beater, seeing if it works at a gig soon!

[Deathmetalconga]

BASS DRUM INTERAL MIC MOUNT

I don't like a big hole in the bass drum head - it looks screwy being able to see inside the drum. Yet drums do sound better with internal miking and it's more convenient. I set out to mount my Audo Technica PRO-25 bass drum mic inside my 18 by 18 inch Spirit Dums solid ironwood shell. I showed an earlier version of this at http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10 but this is the finished concept. No drilling into the shell was done.

These are the basic mount materials. I got an extra-deep nut to secure the lug and support the mic mount. The mount is 3/8 inch rod with a bolt welded to one end (goes in the lug nut) and bent to 90 degrees and threaded on the other end to accept the brass mic mount adaptor. I painted it black - just felt like it.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Micmount1.jpg

This is how the mic is mounted, looking toward the resonant head. After much trial and error and a couple of different sized mounts, I discovered that pointing the mic away from the batter head, toward and just a few inches from the resonant head, produced the fattest sound. I cut four 3/4 inch venting holes in the resonant head and glued black foam behind them, making them practically invisible from the outside. Venting was necessary as the airtight drum overpressured and produced a "piiiiing" sound, similar to slapping an inner tube.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Micmount2.jpg

View looking toward batter head, showing wiring through vent hole. I cut the XLR cable and soldered it to a Tip-Ring-Sleeve female socket, sometimes called a stereo-quarter inch. It fits a quarter-inch, but it's really wired like XLR. At the othe end of the cable I soldered a TRS male plug.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Micmount3.jpg

Outside view showing TRS plug going into shell. Now, miking the bass drum is as simple as slipping the plug into the socket.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Micmount4.jpg

Drumhead showing venting holes. If you look carefully, you may be able to see the four venting holes, located in an arc in the black dragon scales near the bottom of the head. They are invisible under stage lighting.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Micmount5.jpg

[fourstringdrums]

Very nice once again man :) Have you every thought of patenting anything?

Got a question maybe you can answer...if you were going to shorter a hi-hat rod, what would be the easiest, cleanest way to do it. It's always bothered me having almost a foot and a half of rod that just gets in the way that I'm never going to use.

[Ozzy Biz]

Do you have access to a drop saw and belt sander? Just cut with the saw and smooth back the edge on the sander; 2 minute job maximum. Failing that, you could do it with an angle-grinder and preferably also a vice. Again, just mark, cut and smooth up the rough edges a bit.

Biz

[fourstringdrums]

Do you have access to a drop saw and belt sander? Just cut with the saw and smooth back the edge on the sander; 2 minute job maximum. Failing that, you could do it with an angle-grinder and preferably also a vice. Again, just mark, cut and smooth up the rough edges a bit.

Biz

Nope, I have neither...I'm not even sure what you mean by drop saw *lol* :) What are the cheapest tools that I could buy that would still do a pretty good job?

[Ozzy Biz]

this is a drop saw
http://www.transquip.com.au/products/EPCOS355.JPG

and this is a belt grinder
http://www.intranet.csupomona.edu/~clhoke1/images/metalonly.jpg


Hey, I don't have them at home either. Do you have any friends or family who rate themselves as reasonable handymen who may have these tools? Or possibly a fabricator/turner & fitter/etc who may let you do it or just do it for you?
It's a simple job; hell, my little sister could do it and she's in year 7. These aren't a necessity though.
If you don't know anyone who will let you use their shed for 5 minutes, there's the more labour intensive option..... the hacksaw and coarse grit sandpaper.

[Deathmetalconga]

Nope, I have neither...I'm not even sure what you mean by drop saw *lol* :) What are the cheapest tools that I could buy that would still do a pretty good job?

After 20 years of service, my hihat pull rod was bent beyond repair last year and I made a new one. I purchased the cold-rolled steel rod, cut it and threaded it.

But just chopping one down is easier. You'll need a hacksaw to cut the rod. Then you'll need to file or grind down the remaining pull rod so it doesn't scratch you. You can pick up metal files and hacksaws in the discount bin at Ace hardware or the neighborhood dollar store. Really, a drop saw and belt grinder would be overkill for a task like this. You could do it for a couple of bucks in tools and a little elbow grease.

You should have a vise, though. A decent vise is at the heart of any workshop and essential for all sorts of stuff. Are you married? You can justify tool expenditures to the wife if you start fixing stuff around the house. Plus, that will improve your tinkering skills. I've been collecting tools seriously for about 15 years and I'm always trying to fix or make something. Like drumming, it's a fun skill to have and another creative outlet.

I went by a place this afternoon that makes gaskets here in town and they just gave me 10discs, 9 inches in diameter, made of tough flexible rubber about 1/16 of an inch thick. I used a hole punch to put a half-inch hole in the center of each one and they'll go between my cymbals while in transit (I use a Humes & Berg Enduro case and they sometimes rattle against each other). I suppose I could also use the discs as mufflers, or get some more of this material to make my own custom mufflers for drums and cymbals - they're made of the same stuff as the purpose-made mufflers, but they're much, much cheaper and you can make them to your own specifications.

[Ozzy Biz]

Really, a drop saw and belt grinder would be overkill for a task like this. You could do it for a couple of bucks in tools and a little elbow grease.

Yeah, but I'm lazy. If I was sitting there in a workshop with a rod to be cut down, i wouldn't consider the hack saw with a perfectly good drop saw just sitting there...

[fourstringdrums]

After 20 years of service, my hihat pull rod was bent beyond repair last year and I made a new one. I purchased the cold-rolled steel rod, cut it and threaded it.

But just chopping one down is easier. You'll need a hacksaw to cut the rod. Then you'll need to file or grind down the remaining pull rod so it doesn't scratch you. You can pick up metal files and hacksaws in the discount bin at Ace hardware or the neighborhood dollar store. Really, a drop saw and belt grinder would be overkill for a task like this. You could do it for a couple of bucks in tools and a little elbow grease.

You should have a vise, though. A decent vise is at the heart of any workshop and essential for all sorts of stuff. Are you married? You can justify tool expenditures to the wife if you start fixing stuff around the house. Plus, that will improve your tinkering skills. I've been collecting tools seriously for about 15 years and I'm always trying to fix or make something. Like drumming, it's a fun skill to have and another creative outlet.

I went by a place this afternoon that makes gaskets here in town and they just gave me 10discs, 9 inches in diameter, made of tough flexible rubber about 1/16 of an inch thick. I used a hole punch to put a half-inch hole in the center of each one and they'll go between my cymbals while in transit (I use a Humes & Berg Enduro case and they sometimes rattle against each other). I suppose I could also use the discs as mufflers, or get some more of this material to make my own custom mufflers for drums and cymbals - they're made of the same stuff as the purpose-made mufflers, but they're much, much cheaper and you can make them to your own specifications.

Don't they make small cutting blades (circular) that you can attach to a power drill? Also doesn't a dremel bit come in handy for smoothing out metal?

[Deathmetalconga]

Don't they make small cutting blades (circular) that you can attach to a power drill? Also doesn't a dremel bit come in handy for smoothing out metal?

I've never heard of metal cutting blades that attached to a power drill. How could it work? Power drills are low speed/high torque and a round blade would make it difficult to control, maybe even a bit dangerous. As I recall, pull rods are 3/16 or 1/4 inch. A hacksaw would go through that in 10 seconds, assuming the rod is in a vise. While a hacksaw is low speed, the blade is straight so you can control it.

There are small grinding stones that attach to hand drills and those are useful. I didn't know you had a hand drill. What all sorts of tools do you have?

[fourstringdrums]

I've never heard of metal cutting blades that attached to a power drill. How could it work? Power drills are low speed/high torque and a round blade would make it difficult to control, maybe even a bit dangerous. As I recall, pull rods are 3/16 or 1/4 inch. A hacksaw would go through that in 10 seconds, assuming the rod is in a vise. While a hacksaw is low speed, the blade is straight so you can control it.

There are small grinding stones that attach to hand drills and those are useful. I didn't know you had a hand drill. What all sorts of tools do you have?

I don't have many tools. I have the power drill, and then I do have a hack saw, but the blade is shot, so I'd have to get another one. I don't have a vice. I'm not the handiest guy with tools, hence the lack of them :)

[Tama Player]

BASS DRUM INTERAL MIC MOUNT

I don't like a big hole in the bass drum head - it looks screwy being able to see inside the drum. Yet drums do sound better with internal miking and it's more convenient. I set out to mount my Audo Technica PRO-25 bass drum mic inside my 18 by 18 inch Spirit Dums solid ironwood shell. I showed an earlier version of this at http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10 but this is the finished concept. No drilling into the shell was done.

These are the basic mount materials. I got an extra-deep nut to secure the lug and support the mic mount. The mount is 3/8 inch rod with a bolt welded to one end (goes in the lug nut) and bent to 90 degrees and threaded on the other end to accept the brass mic mount adaptor. I painted it black - just felt like it.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Micmount1.jpg

This is how the mic is mounted, looking toward the resonant head. After much trial and error and a couple of different sized mounts, I discovered that pointing the mic away from the batter head, toward and just a few inches from the resonant head, produced the fattest sound. I cut four 3/4 inch venting holes in the resonant head and glued black foam behind them, making them practically invisible from the outside. Venting was necessary as the airtight drum overpressured and produced a "piiiiing" sound, similar to slapping an inner tube.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Micmount2.jpg

View looking toward batter head, showing wiring through vent hole. I cut the XLR cable and soldered it to a Tip-Ring-Sleeve female socket, sometimes called a stereo-quarter inch. It fits a quarter-inch, but it's really wired like XLR. At the othe end of the cable I soldered a TRS male plug.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Micmount3.jpg

Outside view showing TRS plug going into shell. Now, miking the bass drum is as simple as slipping the plug into the socket.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Micmount4.jpg

Drumhead showing venting holes. If you look carefully, you may be able to see the four venting holes, located in an arc in the black dragon scales near the bottom of the head. They are invisible under stage lighting.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Micmount5.jpg


Thats reall cool how the mic is wired and the venting holes are invisible. Thats really neat, if you ever sold any of that I would defintley look into it. Really, I would pay some good money for those. Or at least try and make them myself! : D

Peace
AGR

[fourstringdrums]

Ok I shortened my hi-hat rod.

The hardware store didn't have any vice clamps left, so I used just a spring loaded clamp to hold the rod to the table.. Only $3. I then cut 8" off the rod. That of course took forever, and the blade kept hanging up so it made it take even longer, but it did it :)

I then used a power drill mounted grinder point to smooth the end, and round it off on the top slightly. That was only about $3 too.

http://www.handidrummed.com/grinderpoint.jpg

As you can see from the side, it looks like a straight cut and not rounded at all, but from the top you can see the rounding a bit.

http://www.handidrummed.com/hihatrod1.jpg

http://www.handidrummed.com/hihatrod2.jpg

It looks pretty good actually, I really surprised myself. The top isn't flawless finish wise, a few scratches, but who cares :) I did make sure to set my hi-hat at the highest height, with the cymbals open the widest I would ever possibly use, just in case. I wound up having more left over than I originally measured, but it's enough to get out of the way of other cymbals and looks clean.

The final result:

http://www.handidrummed.com/turk_china2.jpg

I wound up spending $30 at the hardware store though because I had to get a new hacksaw blade and they only sell them in packs ($11) and then I had to buy a heavy dutry ice scraper $10, but that's unrelated to this :)

Thanks for all the help guys!

[Deathmetalconga]

Ok I shortened my hi-hat rod.

The hardware store didn't have any vice clamps left, so I used just a spring loaded clamp to hold the rod to the table.. Only $3. I then cut 8" off the rod. That of course took forever, and the blade kept hanging up so it made it take even longer, but it did it :)

I then used a power drill mounted grinder point to smooth the end, and round it off on the top slightly. That was only about $3 too.

As you can see from the side, it looks like a straight cut and not rounded at all, but from the top you can see the rounding a bit.

It looks pretty good actually, I really surprised myself. The top isn't flawless finish wise, a few scratches, but who cares :) I did make sure to set my hi-hat at the highest height, with the cymbals open the widest I would ever possibly use, just in case. I wound up having more left over than I originally measured, but it's enough to get out of the way of other cymbals and looks clean.

The final result:

I wound up spending $30 at the hardware store though because I had to get a new hacksaw blade and they only sell them in packs ($11) and then I had to buy a heavy dutry ice scraper $10, but that's unrelated to this :)

Thanks for all the help guys!

Good job! Sounds like you thought it through in advance. I encourage you to try other mods and feel free to ask us all if you need advice.

Also, stop showing photos of your Bosphorus. I start drooling all over the keyboard and it gets messy!

[fourstringdrums]

Good job! Sounds like you thought it through in advance. I encourage you to try other mods and feel free to ask us all if you need advice.

Also, stop showing photos of your Bosphorus. I start drooling all over the keyboard and it gets messy!

Probably the only other mod I may try is shortening a cymbal arm so it can be mounted off a bass drum tom holder.

Well once my Gretschs come in (IF they ever come in..they're supposed to be here today but DHL's tracking isn't updated and due to the "winter storms" we had on WEDNESDAY I may not have it until Monday, if it shows up at all, I'll post some pictures of the completed kit. So you'll have to see them again :)

[Deathmetalconga]

Probably the only other mod I may try is shortening a cymbal arm so it can be mounted off a bass drum tom holder.

Well once my Gretschs come in (IF they ever come in..they're supposed to be here today but DHL's tracking isn't updated and due to the "winter storms" we had on WEDNESDAY I may not have it until Monday, if it shows up at all, I'll post some pictures of the completed kit. So you'll have to see them again :)

Tinkering with hardware is addictive. If you have the skill and inclination and a few more tools, I assure you, you'll be doing much more than just shortening cymbal arms. You already show good aptitude and resourcefulness in the improvised hihat holder.

Please do show us your new Gretsches when they come in. I get like a Pavlovian dog when I see a UPS truck, even if it's just next to me in traffic. I imagine it must have some cool drum stuff in there!

I checked out handidrummed.com and it's an inspiration. I was moved with the stories of people who drum despite missing limbs, nervous problems and joint conditions. It made me reflect on my own desire and commitment - if an accident or illness like that happened to me tomorrow (and it very well could), would I have the determination to find a way to keep playing drums somehow, some way? Your site should be required reading for all drummers, regardless of ability.

www.terrasonus.com

[fourstringdrums]

Tinkering with hardware is addictive. If you have the skill and inclination and a few more tools, I assure you, you'll be doing much more than just shortening cymbal arms. You already show good aptitude and resourcefulness in the improvised hihat holder.

Please do show us your new Gretsches when they come in. I get like a Pavlovian dog when I see a UPS truck, even if it's just next to me in traffic. I imagine it must have some cool drum stuff in there!

I checked out handidrummed.com and it's an inspiration. I was moved with the stories of people who drum despite missing limbs, nervous problems and joint conditions. It made me reflect on my own desire and commitment - if an accident or illness like that happened to me tomorrow (and it very well could), would I have the determination to find a way to keep playing drums somehow, some way? Your site should be required reading for all drummers, regardless of ability.

www.terrasonus.com (http://www.terrasonus.com)

Thank you very much, I appreciate it. I'm glad the site can help all drummers.

The Gretsch's didn't come. The seller used DHL and they quite frankly, suck. They lost a Pacific CX kit I ordered a few years ago. It was supposed to be delivered yesterday but it just arrived in the local facility this morning, so I'll have it monday hopefully. What I hate though is their tracking system is terrible. There are two tracking numbers, one of them still says it's in a transit facility in the next state, and the other tracking number which hasn't updated at all since he shipped it, now says it's in the local facility.

As long as they don't lose this one it'll be ok.

[Deathmetalconga]

CYMBAL/PERCUSSION HOLDER

I hate putting just one thing on a stand. I saw I could use the built-in clamp on my tom stand to hold something, so this is what I came up with.

I started with 3/8 rod, then welded an 8mm (standard cymbal size) bolt to one end and threaded the other end for an extra-long nut. I cut plastic tubing to cover the bolt and prevent keyholing. I use Slicknuts and glue the felt to the washers, minimizing parts and fumbling during set-up and take-down.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Stand1.jpg

This shows the LP Ice Bell and Pete Englehart agogo bells attached. After careful measurement, I put a bend in the rod.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Stand2.jpg

The extra-long nut fits inside the tom stand clamp and holds the instruments securely. Because this is 3/8 inch rod, I can mount any standard percussion item to it - cowbells, blocks, tambourines, etc.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Stand3.jpg

How it appears from above.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Stand4.jpg

[fourstringdrums]

Once again, sweet man :) That's great. I love the kit too. Those Fiberskyn(?) tom heads are very slick.

The only other thing I did lately was cut down and smooth/round down a bit the rod on my bass drum cowbell holder. It was getting in my way.

[Deathmetalconga]

The only other thing I did lately was cut down and smooth/round down a bit the rod on my bass drum cowbell holder. It was getting in my way.

That's something a lot more drummers should consider doing. There are all sorts of rods and tubes that stick out way more than they should, adding weight and inconvenience to the set.

Also, thanks for the nice comments on the set. Imagine when those Zildjians are all swapped out for Bosphoruses!

[Deathmetalconga]

LEGLESS HIHAT STAND

I like to cram a lot in a little space. When I got my new drum set in August, I started reconfiguring things and I discovered I could conserve space by removing the legs from my hihat stand and securing it to a cymbal stand. This is a fairly easy modification that saves space and weight.

Side view. The stand is an old Tama double-braced stand from 1985, the oldest item on the drum set. This stand has been with me for a long time and I wanted to use it, so I got a Dremel and carefully ground off the rivets holding the legs to the collars. I could re-assemble the legs if I ever needed to.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Leglesshihat1.jpg

Close-up of the clamping system. It's an old CB700 cast aluminum clamp, mid-1980s vintage. They sure made some tough gear back then. I put Vecro inside the clamp jaws and on the cymbal and hihat stands. This marks the correct position for fast setup, protects the chrome and keeps the grip rock-solid.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Leglesshihat2.jpg

Front view.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Leglesshihat3.jpg

As used in the set. The control pedal for a foot-operated talking drum is on the left, while a DW5000 percussion foot pedal is on the right. I wouldn't have the room for all these pedals with a conventional tripod stand, or even a two-leg stand, owing to the proximity of the very large ride cymbal stand.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Leglesshihat4.jpg

[Shinx]

Thats definatelly a very cool pedal setup. Cool idea for the hi-hats but they seem a little close to the ride for me. Obviously you are used to it, looks cool for open handed playing

Edit: Apparently I can't think of any good adjectives right now :\

[k3ng]

I love the ideas you're putting in here DMC. Amazing job. I'm gonna get meself a welder soon.. hahaha

And your kit must be the most... 'customized' kit out there with hardware perhaps no one else has. Cool. Keep bringing out the ideas.

[Deathmetalconga]

Thanks, k3ng and Shinx. I've got a lot more stuff to display and I'll keep adding it. Also, feel free to put up any stuff you've done - it doesn't have to be fancy. I like seeing what other people are doing. At the top of this thread are some other threads discussing mods and the people there are doing some great stuff as well.

[Deathmetalconga]

CEILING MOUNTED MIC STAND

When the band comes over, I like to record the session because it helps to learn new songs. I have a small practice room and the mic stand and cords would keep getting in the way, with two or three people and their gear in a small space.

The ceiling mount mic stand provides a good way to mic stuff without taking up floor space. I painted, drilled and mounted a desktop mic base to the ceiling, drilled and grommeted holes and ran mic cable through. I used a 3/8-inch coarse threaded rod to go into the base screw adaptor (available at any music store) and that connects with a mic boom. Velcro keeps the mic cables in line and there is several feet of cable stowed in the ceiling. The mic cables run through the ceiling and down a wall to a mixing board, which is connected to a CD recorder. Simple, but it works!

Mic stand stowed, out of the way of people of average height.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Micstand1.jpg

Mic cables come out of the wall through a steel cover plate, drilled and cushioned with rubber grommets. The phono out lines go to the CD recorder.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Micstand2.jpg

Mic stand extended for use. I have rod extensions to allow the boom stand to go much lower if necessary, even to ground level for miking tablas. But this range is excellent for general ambient recording of practice sessions.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Micstand3.jpg

[Deathmetalconga]

DJEMBE STAND

I used to integrate my djembe into my drum set, putting it to my left so I could play ride patterns on it with my left hand and keep my right hand on the snare/hats/ride cymbal. So I welded this stand, using a ring roller. I still use this stand when playing the djembe in conjunction with congas. Otherwise, I put the djembe between my legs sitting or hang it from a strap standing.

This shows the stand holding the drum.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Djembestand1.jpg

This is the stand without the drum. The bottom ring is actually quite a bit larger than the top ring. I put many layers of plastic handle coating on the top ring to cushion and grip the drum.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Djembestand2.jpg

I flip the stand over and the drum nests inside. Everything fits in the transport bag.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Djembestand3.jpg

[morbius25]

ok you need to open your own company and make stuff for drummers. I would buy a lot of the stuff that you have made.

[Shinx]

That mic mount is awesome and just a great idea. Really well done too. I'd love to play all that crazy stuff you have

[Deathmetalconga]

THE WEATHER MACHINE

Thank you, gentlemen. Ramping up a business is just too much hassle, so I just make these one-offs for myself, but if anyone wanted one I'd consider doing stuff on commission. Because I have pretty basic tools, I can't manufacture these in any quantity and anything I'd charge would barely cover time and materials.

Below is the Weather Machine. It's not so much a hardware mod as an interesting way of mounting stuff. It consists of (top to bottom) a Meinl rain wheel (sounds like rain), LP temple blocks (sounds like clouds), LP chimes (sounds like sunlight) and and LP feng luo (wind gong, sounds like wind and thunder). It's all mounted on some unknown '80s vintage stand. I put this together about ten years ago and it's mainly for accents and adds a lot of drama to shows, but it don't use it much.

Front view. I have to rotate the stand for maximum stability as it's front-heavy. A screw secures it to the wall while at home. Mallets store on the instruments.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Weathermachine.jpg

Back view. Pretty strightforward mounting, except the wind gong hangs from the chime mount with Velcro to prevent wandering. I use roller skate bearings to secure the rain wheel, assuring smooth operation.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/wm2.jpg

[fijjibo]

Cool stuff, Im going to make a cowbell/tambourine holder soon......

also, DMC, is that a modern drummer kit of the month I spy on your wall?

Is it your kit?

[mofle]

I did not have a holder for my tamburine, so I put together a few things to make room for it:

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/OleMofjell/Cy001.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/OleMofjell/Cy002.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/OleMofjell/Cy003.jpg



=


http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/OleMofjell/Cy004.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/OleMofjell/Cy006.jpg



-Mofle

[Deathmetalconga]

I did not have a holder for my tamburine, so I put together a few things to make room for it:

-Mofle

Good work! The best mods are where you don't have to modify things very much and just use stuff that's already laying around.

I'd like to see a photo taken from farther away, so we can see how the new tambourine fits into your set.

[mofle]

I'd like to see a photo taken from farther away, so we can see how the new tambourine fits into your set.

It works great, by the way. The crash doesn't hit the tambourine at all. I did not have to tighten the felts, so the crash moves freely, as it is supposed to.
Here you are:

Left:

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/OleMofjell/Cy011.jpg

Right:

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/OleMofjell/Cy012.jpg


As you can see, I have made an x-hat, the way someone (I can not remember who) did here on the forum. That was a great way to make an x-hat! Thanks!

-Mofle

[Deathmetalconga]

Cool stuff, Im going to make a cowbell/tambourine holder soon......

also, DMC, is that a modern drummer kit of the month I spy on your wall?

Is it your kit?

Indeed it is. That is the Dec. 1999 issue. My ironwood kit has since replaced it. But the Kahuna Set took a huge amount of modifying. I did things with drums and percussion that you're just not supposed to do and I couldn't find any mounts, so I had to have a friend develop my designs. In the process, I learned about doing my own mods.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/KahunaSetinModernDrummerDec.jpg

[mofle]

That looks amazing! Do you have any clips, playing it? Sound, or video. I would like to see some pics of you behind it too, to get a look of how you sat\played aso...
(Not that you Ironwood isn't superb)

-Mofle

[BrianW]

Well there is a short story behind this DIY. I went to sam ash to return a broken cymbal, got there,and they said i have to send it in myself. I was dumb and didnt read the warranty, it clearly says that. So im at samash and figured i should look around. I was looking at some of the hardware they have and saw the Danmar wooden beaters. I thought, ive seen a lot of metal drummers using these maybe ill give them a shot. There was no price tag so i said " they cant be more than 12 bucks each right?" I proceed to the checkout to find out that they are 20 bucks each! Thats 40 bucks for double beater! I went home and decided to make some myself.

I used the shaft off of some old felt beaters that came w/ stock pedals ive had. The wood came from the leg of a chair! This chairs legs were not straight they, they had designs in them, some parts rouded and others pointy. Hard to explain ill post a pic when i get back home. I took a part of the wood that was rounded and cut a peice big enough for the shafts that had. All I had to go then is sand them down a bit and dill holes. I chose to drill the holes off center so i would have more adjustment. I think they are a great option to spending 40 bucks on Danmar beaters. Total cost, free for me, i had the chair lying around. For those who want to do this i would say go to ur local home depot or hardware store and see if they sell decorative legs, if they dont just but a peice of 2x2 or 3x3 and sand it down a bit, square beaters might be cool too.
Anyway heres some pics.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e86/BrianWarner/beater3.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e86/BrianWarner/beater2.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e86/BrianWarner/beater1.jpg

next ill be bending the shaft in two places to give the beater more of a foward angle.
|
|
\
.\
..|
..|
like that^^

p.s. this post has made me realize how hard it is to describe shapes lol.

[fijjibo]

Indeed it is. That is the Dec. 1999 issue. My ironwood kit has since replaced it. But the Kahuna Set took a huge amount of modifying. I did things with drums and percussion that you're just not supposed to do and I couldn't find any mounts, so I had to have a friend develop my designs. In the process, I learned about doing my own mods.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/KahunaSetinModernDrummerDec.jpg

I see, awesome.

well done old chap ;-)

[Deathmetalconga]

That looks amazing! Do you have any clips, playing it? Sound, or video. I would like to see some pics of you behind it too, to get a look of how you sat\played aso...
(Not that you Ironwood isn't superb)

-Mofle

Thanks for the comments. The Kahuna set was a lot of fun to play, like a giant toy.

There is one clip online. Go to our band's Web site www.terrasonus.com and the clip "Atman Soliloquy" on the Listen page features the set. However, it really takes a whole CD to hear each of the percussion items played. I was in some bands a few years back that featured the whole set and you can hear it on the MondoRagaSamba CD Katsu vailable at www.cdbaby.com. But there is no other way to hear it online.

[Deathmetalconga]

Well there is a short story behind this DIY. I went to sam ash to return a broken cymbal, got there,and they said i have to send it in myself. I was dumb and didnt read the warranty, it clearly says that. So im at samash and figured i should look around. I was looking at some of the hardware they have and saw the Danmar wooden beaters. I thought, ive seen a lot of metal drummers using these maybe ill give them a shot. There was no price tag so i said " they cant be more than 12 bucks each right?" I proceed to the checkout to find out that they are 20 bucks each! Thats 40 bucks for double beater! I went home and decided to make some myself.

I used the shaft off of some old felt beaters that came w/ stock pedals ive had. The wood came from the leg of a chair! This chairs legs were not straight they, they had designs in them, some parts rouded and others pointy. Hard to explain ill post a pic when i get back home. I took a part of the wood that was rounded and cut a peice big enough for the shafts that had. All I had to go then is sand them down a bit and dill holes. I chose to drill the holes off center so i would have more adjustment. I think they are a great option to spending 40 bucks on Danmar beaters. Total cost, free for me, i had the chair lying around. For those who want to do this i would say go to ur local home depot or hardware store and see if they sell decorative legs, if they dont just but a peice of 2x2 or 3x3 and sand it down a bit, square beaters might be cool too.
Anyway heres some pics.

next ill be bending the shaft in two places to give the beater more of a foward angle.
|
|
\
.\
..|
..|
like that^^

p.s. this post has made me realize how hard it is to describe shapes lol.

Very good! The contrast between the old-world look of the beaters with the high-tech look of the Axis pedals is a neat contrast.

It is possible to buy round wooden balls of about that size at most hardware stores. But I like how you found suitable materials around the house and did your own thing. The outrageous cost of gear has led me to do my own mods in many cases. Heck, for a lot of the stuff I want to do, no one makes gear for it. I recently made my own beaters with a couple of those giant superballs ($1 each out of a vending machine). They're not as bouncy as you'd think and they really fatten the sound.

You might want to glue a piece of felt to one side of the beaters and sand another side flat. Then you'd have different playing surfaces to use.

[Deathmetalconga]

MOUNTING FENG GONG ON CYMBAL STAND

I did this mod perhaps 10 years ago. Actually, it was my concept and design, but my friend Dirty Ed did it because I didn't have many tools back then and he has great stuff.

These gongs have a great sound - they're sometimes called Ascending Gongs. People carry them in parades and hit them on the flat part with sticks and the make a crazy, weird metallic sound that rises at the end, in the space of about a second. As soon as I got this I wanted to mount it, but of course you can't put a hole and mount it like a cymbal. So I came up with this solution.

The metal rods are padded with tubing where they touch the gong metal and the nut screws onto any 8 mm stand. The ends of the three arms are threaded and a small nut keeps the gong in place
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Fengmod1.jpg

Shown mounted from the side.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Fengmod2.jpg

Shown from the bottom
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Fengmod3.jpg

[fijjibo]

Cool stuff man, I was just looking at pics of your woodshed, and am truly amazed at the number of options you can put in a single room....

good work, all of you.

[Deathmetalconga]

GIMPING A CYMBAL STAND FOR NO-LEG HIHAT STAND

In my never-ending quest to streamline and reduce my hardware, I did this following mod. I removed one of the legs from the DW ride stand (I play open handed, ride on left). I got one of those two-legged DW 5000 hats and removed the legs, clamping it to the "gimp" tripod. The foot plate of the hihat stand locks into place, so it serves as the missing leg of the tripod. So, instead of having up to six leg contact points, I have just two. This frees up room for another foot percussion pedal.

Setup minus cymbals. I put Velcro on the stands and clamp jaws, showing correct location during setup and preventing scratching. Two clamps ensure rock-solid support.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/2legs3.jpg

As installed in set. Stand leg placement gives plenty of room for foot pedals.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/2legs1.jpg

Close-up. I figure I saved a fair amount of bulk and about six pounds in hardware weight with the mod - which I of course immediately gained back with the second foot percussion pedal. The only downside is that setup is a bit trickier, as a two-leg cymbal stand doesn't stand up very well!
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/2legs2.jpg

[boomboomda]

O.k. this is not quite a DIY Mod, but when I designed my drum I thought to myself damn I don't need no stinkin' rim suspension system, so I designed my lugs to accomodate my DIY suspension system,
and taking the toms of the stand is not necessary for head change, even if most of us probably do it anyway.



http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/trittl/IMG_0314.jpg

[Deathmetalconga]

O.k. this is not quite a DIY Mod, but when I designed my drum I thought to myself damn I don't need no stinkin' rim suspension system, so I designed my lugs to accomodate my DIY suspension system,
and taking the toms of the stand is not necessary for head change, even if most of us probably do it anyway.

Very cool. I'm really interested in your suspension system. How did you make that? I've seen those before, ones that have four contact points on lugs on opposite sides, but I forget the manufacturer. Neat how you just made your own!

[SLEEPY BRiGHT EYEZ]

O.k. this is not quite a DIY Mod, but when I designed my drum I thought to myself damn I don't need no stinkin' rim suspension system, so I designed my lugs to accomodate my DIY suspension system


That is pretty cool. How do you go about making your custom stuff? It looks like a finished pro product. Very nice.

[boomboomda]

Very cool. I'm really interested in your suspension system. How did you make that? I've seen those before, ones that have four contact points on lugs on opposite sides, but I forget the manufacturer. Neat how you just made your own!

The key to it was the design of the lugs, so it can accommodate the suspension system.
The system itself is regular 3/4" aluminum flat material from Home Depot.
I bend them a little outwards the tom holder goes a little further into the Pearl holder.
The pearl tom holder I bought of course, after that I brought it somewhere for powder coating.
I will take some picture with the suspension system off, that clears some thing up, because the lugs underneath the suspension system differ slightly from the other ones.

[Deathmetalconga]

The key to it was the design of the lugs, so it can accommodate the suspension system.
The system itself is regular 3/4" aluminum flat material from Home Depot.
I bend them a little outwards the tom holder goes a little further into the Pearl holder.
The pearl tom holder I bought of course, after that I brought it somewhere for powder coating.
I will take some picture with the suspension system off, that clears some thing up, because the lugs underneath the suspension system differ slightly from the other ones.

Your work is very finely finished and looks OEM quality. I do a lot of mods, some of them pretty good, but I have trouble getting stuff to look so professional.

[Deathmetalconga]

CONVERTING A STICK DRUM TO A HAND DRUM

I got one of these foot-controlled variable-pitch Talkit drums last year at www.b-radpercussion.com. He has stick and hand models and the stick models have standard Remo drumheads and triple-flanged hoops, while the stick models have conga-style rims and goatskin heads.

I wanted the ability to play my Talkit by hand, yet still keep the option to play with sticks. So I used a hacksaw and Dremel to remove the rim of the hoop, exposing the head where it goes over the bearing edge, much like a Comfort Curve conga or bongo rim. The drum uses cables to control tension and the cables are anchored to the hoops with eye bolts and nylon lock nuts. I removed the lock nuts and got some low-profile carriage bolts and extra-deep connector nuts.

As a result, I can comfortably play this with my hands, or incorporate it into my drum set for stick playing. Aside from chopping the hoop, I have done nothing permanent to change this remarkable instrument and I could put it back to OEM with little effort.

Close up showing chopped hoop, carriage bolt and deep nuts.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Talkit2.jpg

As played in percussion setup. The foot pedal for controlling the Talkit drum is between the conga stands and a bicycle cable connects with the drum's pulley system.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Talkit1.jpg

[IDDrummer]

I've got a show coming up Saturday at an outdoor festival. The band changes are really quick, so I called up the sound company to ask for advice. They suggested that I have all my mics already mounted up, so when we set up the drums, all we have to do is plug in and set levels. Easy enough with my toms/snare, but I wanted to have my bass drum ready to go, too. So I devised a mount using one L-bracket, two hose clamps, and some rubber sheeting that you use to keep things from sliding around in drawers. I just used the upright shaft from my regular bass drum mic stand and clamped it to the L-bracket, then mounted the L-bracket inside the bass drum with a lug screw. Several layers of the rubber sheeting provide cushioning (and hopefully enough isolation for my purposes.)The cable runs right out the tom mount bracket, which I don't use.

Pic 1 shows the remains of my original mic stand (it all screws back together)
Pic 2 shows the bracket screwed to the inside of the drum
Pic 3 is a front view
Pic 4 shows the mic installed and the cable run through the mount. I'm trying the mic pointed at the reso head, per DMC's suggestion. A quick recording indicates it'll sound fine - we'll see how it sounds through the PA Saturday!

[Deathmetalconga]

I've got a show coming up Saturday at an outdoor festival. The band changes are really quick, so I called up the sound company to ask for advice. They suggested that I have all my mics already mounted up, so when we set up the drums, all we have to do is plug in and set levels. Easy enough with my toms/snare, but I wanted to have my bass drum ready to go, too. So I devised a mount using one L-bracket, two hose clamps, and some rubber sheeting that you use to keep things from sliding around in drawers. I just used the upright shaft from my regular bass drum mic stand and clamped it to the L-bracket, then mounted the L-bracket inside the bass drum with a lug screw. Several layers of the rubber sheeting provide cushioning (and hopefully enough isolation for my purposes.)The cable runs right out the tom mount bracket, which I don't use.

Pic 1 shows the remains of my original mic stand (it all screws back together)
Pic 2 shows the bracket screwed to the inside of the drum
Pic 3 is a front view
Pic 4 shows the mic installed and the cable run through the mount. I'm trying the mic pointed at the reso head, per DMC's suggestion. A quick recording indicates it'll sound fine - we'll see how it sounds through the PA Saturday!

Very cool and elegant mod, with no permanent alteration of the drum or essential components. How did it sound at the gig?

One question: What do you do when you need to mount the toms in the bass drum? Or have you switched to permanent suspention for the rack toms?

[IDDrummer]

Very cool and elegant mod, with no permanent alteration of the drum or essential components. How did it sound at the gig?

One question: What do you do when you need to mount the toms in the bass drum? Or have you switched to permanent suspention for the rack toms?

I use a Tama double tom stand for the rack toms, generally. I haven't used the bass drum mount for quite a while. If I wanted to use it, I guess I would have to run the mic cable through the vent hole or maybe install a female XLR jack directly into the shell.

BTW, it sounded great at the gig! Setup was a breeze - I set up, plugged in, and setting levels took less than a minute. Entire sound check took maybe 5 minutes. They had a good sound company working the event, thank goodness.

[cjl71178]

you guys all have great ideas...i wish i could come up with genius stuff! keep 'em coming!

[GRUNTERSDAD]

http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28640

Thought I would try this on this thread also. Have fun viewing.

[Joel Woody]

im going to have to secretly do that when my shop teacher is looking the other way.........im defenintly going to use those ideas if thats ok with you.......jeez........brilliant!

[GRUNTERSDAD]

Be my guest. That's what we are here for. Just remember...Safety glasses.

Three dollars for a four foot piece of Oak, used about 18 inches.
Fourteen dollars for the 3/8th inch pieces of aluminum rod, one 8 footer, one three footer.
A Dremel tool with drill press stand, hack saw, sandpaper. etc etc etc.

A trade secret...Well not really. The chimes are 3/8th inch thick and I drilled a whole every 5/8th inch in the wood to tie them on. This puts them close enough to touch without a lot of force. Any closer won/t help and any further away and you would have to really move them to have them touch. Shhhhh....

[Deathmetalconga]

http://www.drummerworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28640

Thought I would try this on this thread also. Have fun viewing.

Great idea, fun project, thanks for sharing it here. I've added this to the index of related threads on the first post of this thread.

[GRUNTERSDAD]

Thanks for the inclusion DMC.

[Deathmetalconga]

Be my guest. That's what we are here for. Just remember...Safety glasses.

Three dollars for a four foot piece of Oak, used about 18 inches.
Fourteen dollars for the 3/8th inch pieces of aluminum rod, one 8 footer, one three footer.
A Dremel tool with drill press stand, hack saw, sandpaper. etc etc etc.

A trade secret...Well not really. The chimes are 3/8th inch thick and I drilled a whole every 5/8th inch in the wood to tie them on. This puts them close enough to touch without a lot of force. Any closer won/t help and any further away and you would have to really move them to have them touch. Shhhhh....

One idea on the build: you may find the string wearing out a lot. I have a pair of LP chimes that were strung with Kevlar thread and they wore out before long and the chimes started dropping. Also, they used staples to attach the thread to the wood and that abraded the thread a lot.

Instead of more thread, I used the smallest possible plastic cable ties. I removed the staples and used very small eye screws to hold the cable ties to the wood frame. I clipped the cable ties of excess material.

The sound of the chimes is slightly less brilliant and the chimes stop moving a little sooner (I prefer to use the term "more controlled and focused") because the cable ties are a heavier than the thread. But they still sound great and are extremely durable.


You might be able to see the results in these photos:
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Weathermachine.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/wm2.jpg

[GRUNTERSDAD]

Mine are strung with 15 pound monofilament line. They are not tied singly but I used one long piece. Starting from the back going thru the wood thru the rod and then back thru the wood. There is two strands going thru the wood but only one thru the rods. After I drilled the holes I used a small burring bit and sort of counter sunk or smoothed out the hole to get rid of sharp edges. Only time will tell how long they last but to re-string the whole thing only takes about an hour. As I pull the line back thru the wood the second time, I peg the hole with a round toothpick so as not to have it droop until I get the next rod strung. I use about 3 pegs and move the first one after I get the third hole pegged, etc. I am going to buy some braided fly fishing backing line and restring this set. I actually came home tonight and drilled another piece of oak and added 8 more bars...its 30 now. Sounds gorgeous.

[Les Ismore]

Simple Axis bottom plate mod, adds stability, playability w/heavy playing.

Mod plate: 1/4" thick aluminum stock
7" across the front
6" across at the rear
5 7/8" amidships
14 1/4" front to back

Stock plate:
5 1/4" across the front
4" across at rear
3 7/8" amidships
14" front to back

Less tipping side to side under heavy playing with the bigger plate(s). This mod is easy, you have stock plate as a template with holes already in place. Design of mod'ed plate follows the stock outline, larger of course.

Mark out the shape, cut on band saw, grind edges, mark, punch and drill holes, obviously a sharp bit and a drill press or mill works beat. Counter sink bottom holes, assemble, done.

Axis will probably do this mod for you if you inquire, may or may not be cost effictive compared to local machine shop. If your in school, easy metal shop project.

Foot board plates are 16 ga aluminum stock cut to custom shape that loosly resembles stock Axis foot board. Wider foot boards facilitate barefoot heel-toe technique. These plates are velcro'ed on top of stock Axis foot board(s).

The black layer on top is a Wal-Mart item called 'Foamies' 9x12" sheets of 2 mm thick foam with an adhesive backing found in the 'craft section' and .50 a sheet, cut to shape, peel and stick. Great for bare foot playing.

[GRUNTERSDAD]

Nice job Les. Always fun to be able to make your own modifications. That has to be as stable as an aircraft carrier being that wide. Again, good job.

[boomboomda]

Here is something I made also, I call it the self containing cymbal holder.
Our band practices at a rent by the hour rehearsal place, and of course you have to bring
your cymbals. But most of the time the felts were missing, or the wing nuts were missing or didn't fit the thread.
So I made those plastic things, bought some felts, so all I have to do now is put the cymbal in between the felts, screw the top black piece on, and just slide it on the the top of the existing cymbal stand.

[GRUNTERSDAD]

Very good idea Boom.......

[SLEEPY BRiGHT EYEZ]

Nice bamboo flooring there. My wife wants to use bamboo in our home.

[fijjibo]

Boom - Ive done that before now.

Works a treat, and protects your cymbals from bad stands.

[GRUNTERSDAD]

Its not pretty but it works well and keeps the chain out of the way of being hit with the stick.
Just some aluminum bar, and some rubber stopper chain...one piece cut in two to use the rings on the end. About 30 minutes worth of work. Enjoy.

[Deathmetalconga]

Its not pretty but it works well and keeps the chain out of the way of being hit with the stick.
Just some aluminum bar, and some rubber stopper chain...one piece cut in two to use the rings on the end. About 30 minutes worth of work. Enjoy.

Hey, that's pimp. I like putting a ball chain on my ride sometimes but I hate how the stick hits the chain. What an elegant solution! Ima make one now.

[Wavelength]

What an elegant solution! Ima make one now.

How do you find playing the bell with that device mounted on top of the ride? It seems to me that the only complete solution to the stick-hitting-the-chain-problem is to add an extra stand for the sizzle chain, which would be a rather dubious and, dare I say, hilariously in(s)ane. Then again, you could go a few bounds further, take a remote hat stand and turn it into a pedal operated and cable driven cymbal sizzlificator!

[Deathmetalconga]

How do you find playing the bell with that device mounted on top of the ride? It seems to me that the only complete solution to the stick-hitting-the-chain-problem is to add an extra stand for the sizzle chain, which would be a rather dubious and, dare I say, hilariously in(s)ane. Then again, you could go a few bounds further, take a remote hat stand and turn it into a pedal operated and cable driven cymbal sizzlificator!


HAHA! Funny ideas.

You raise a good point. If you made Gruntersdad's current holder asymmetrical (both chains on one side, instead of one on each side) it would allow good access to the bell.

[GRUNTERSDAD]

I still use the bell. Just a little finesse is necessary.

[Wavelength]

I still use the bell. Just a little finesse is necessary.

I don't see any way of striking the bell with the shoulder of the stick while that thing is attached. I mean, you should be approaching the bell at a very strange angle!

[boomboomda]

I found a big sheet of plastic in my garage today, tossed in the garbage, got it back out
and made myself a music stand.
So I don't have to carry the one I have in the house back and forth.
The sheet of plastic was probably more expensive than a stand, but before I throw it away
I thought le me try it.
I cut it to the size I needed it drilled a hole in the top, glue a 90 degree angle aluminum
on the bottom and mounted the whole thing on a cymbal clamp on holder I had left over.
Here are some pics.
BTW it looks like the cymbal hit the stand , but there is enough clearance.

[Deathmetalconga]

I found a big sheet of plastic in my garage today, tossed in the garbage, got it back out
and made myself a music stand.
So I don't have to carry the one I have in the house back and forth.
The sheet of plastic was probably more expensive than a stand, but before I throw it away
I thought le me try it.
I cut it to the size I needed it drilled a hole in the top, glue a 90 degree angle aluminum
on the bottom and mounted the whole thing on a cymbal clamp on holder I had left over.
Here are some pics.
BTW it looks like the cymbal hit the stand , but there is enough clearance.

Very cool! Using scraps is great. Gluing the aluminum strip was a smart move. How much did you have to shell out? Sounds like you had most everything on hand.

[boomboomda]

Very cool! Using scraps is great. Gluing the aluminum strip was a smart move. How much did you have to shell out? Sounds like you had most everything on hand.


I had everthing on hand, no money was required.
That was my goal, because a music stand is not very expensive.

[Wavelength]

Recently I've felt that the spring in my hi-hat stand (Yamaha HS950) is too tight even in its loosest setting, and if I were to lower the footboard angle (which I'd like to experiment with) the spring compresses even tighter. Do you happen to have any ideas on how to loosen up the spring or even change it altogether?

[boomboomda]

Recently I've felt that the spring in my hi-hat stand (Yamaha HS950) is too tight even in its loosest setting, and if I were to lower the footboard angle (which I'd like to experiment with) the spring compresses even tighter. Do you happen to have any ideas on how to loosen up the spring or even change it altogether?


How old is your hi-hat stand? If it is older I would start with taking it apart and be sure that it is lubed where it suppose to be lubed, and for correct functionality.
I just looked at the stand at www.midwestpercussion.com
pretty heavy duty looking.
Sorry can't help more.

[Deathmetalconga]

Recently I've felt that the spring in my hi-hat stand (Yamaha HS950) is too tight even in its loosest setting, and if I were to lower the footboard angle (which I'd like to experiment with) the spring compresses even tighter. Do you happen to have any ideas on how to loosen up the spring or even change it altogether?

The stand should have a spring tension setting somewhere, but maybe not.

Most hardware stores have a selection of springs. The springs used in hi-hat stands aren't particularly exotic. Remove your spring and take it there. You should be able to find springs of the same size that have different tensions. They're cheap and you can get a few and see what works for you.

Depending on the construction, you may be able to cut the spring. Shortening it would reduce its strength, but it might not fit inside the stand anymore. You should wear eye protection and gloves when cutting springs with a bolt cutter or hacksaw because the metal is very high-grade, tough and under considerable internal tension, so springs behave unpredictably when cut.

[Wavelength]

The stand should have a spring tension setting somewhere, but maybe not.

It does have a setting dial, but even its loosest setting is fairly tight.

[Tuxido]

Cut one leg, pivoted the two others...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t172/Tuxido9/Photo46.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t172/Tuxido9/Photo50.jpg



EDIT: my block pedal still doesn't fit...

[boomboomda]

Cool I have an old Tama stand I wanted to do that to, but the legs on that one do not rotate. I have to find a solution for mine too.


Cut one leg, piveted the two others...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t172/Tuxido9/Photo46.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t172/Tuxido9/Photo50.jpg

[Deathmetalconga]

Cool I have an old Tama stand I wanted to do that to, but the legs on that one do not rotate. I have to find a solution for mine too.

Gimping a hihat stand is a great mod. I did this with an old Tama as well. If you do it right it is completely reversible.

Look very carefully at how the tops of the legs are attached to a sliding collar and a fixed collar at the bottom. These collars are removable. I'm certain you could loosen and rotate them and re-tighten them.

So, you could remove one of the legs, then rotate the collars to the right position. The collar tightening mechanism might not be easy to adjust, so once you had the new position for the two legs you'd have to leave them there, but at least you'd shave off a leg from the stand.

[SLEEPY BRiGHT EYEZ]

Has anyone crafted their own rack tubing using some metal tubing from Home Depot? I was seriously pondering this tonight as I stared at a rack full of metal tubing. For 8 to 10 feet of tubing, it's only about $13. Now, a 4ft long Gibraltar straight tube is about twice that when you buy it new. I figured, if they are the same diameter, I could substitute generic tubing for official Gibraltar tubing.

I've been wanting to add on to my rack, and this would be much cheaper than buying the branded tubing. I was just wondering if anyone had taken a stab at it yet.

[Deathmetalconga]

Has anyone crafted their own rack tubing using some metal tubing from Home Depot? I was seriously pondering this tonight as I stared at a rack full of metal tubing. For 8 to 10 feet of tubing, it's only about $13. Now, a 4ft long Gibraltar straight tube is about twice that when you buy it new. I figured, if they are the same diameter, I could substitute generic tubing for official Gibraltar tubing.

I've been wanting to add on to my rack, and this would be much cheaper than buying the branded tubing. I was just wondering if anyone had taken a stab at it yet.

That sounds like a good idea. Here are my thoughts:

Is the Home Depot tubing chromed? If it's not chromed, it might look screwy. Or it might look terrific, depending on the set and type of music.

If Gibraltar is charging $26 for four feet of chrome tubing, at today's prices, that's not outrageous.

Is the Home Depot tubing exactly the same diameter as the Gibraltar? If not, would it work anyway? Bring some clamps to the store and try the fit.

Are the end caps for the tubing available?

It would be a neat project if you could get it to work. Racks are much less complex than stands and you'd have a lot of flexibility to do what you wanted. For cutting, I would strongly recomment a chop saw, to ensure straight cuts.

[SLEEPY BRiGHT EYEZ]

The pipe from Home Depot is raw conduit. Aluminum I believe. It would have to go to a special shop to give it a shiny finish according to a friend of mine. He suggested I paint it, but I doubt paint would hold up after some abuse with clamps and what not. I'm not too, too worried about it being bright and shiny. After all, most of what I do is just in my music room. I don't expect to do much gigging any time soon and if I did, I doubt someone would walk out of the bar because I was using raw conduit instead of chrome plated tubing. heheh I was wondering if I could just buff it out, but my friend said I couldn't. I could always just replace my entire rack with the conduit and resell the Gibraltar tubing to make everything match. The hardware on my kit is black, and the super shiny chrome doesn't entirely match to my eyes.

I do want to bring a clamp in to check. Gibraltar tubing is 1.5". I know they have that in the conduit. But ya, there may be a slight difference. Next time I go to Home Depot I'll bring a clamp. I'm pretty sure you can get end caps there as well. Only one of my current rack tubes has an end capped. All of the horizontal bars terminate into T clamps, and two of my three vertical bars have boom arms on top to hold crashes. The leg tubes have 'feet' caps on them as well. So in my case, caps aren't too much of a concern though it is something to consider for the overall project.

I really like the idea of having custom length tubes to fit exactly how I want. I've been wanting a third side to my rack as well, so I can convert my hat stand into a legless one and mount a cymbal or two, or something over there. I have extra clamps now which warrant something new to add to the line up. hahah!

[Deathmetalconga]

COMBINATION COWBELL/METRONOME HOLDER

I have been using the metronome more and it really helps me to see it. I wanted to mount it where it would be visible, as it really helps me to see the blinking lights, yet not get in the way. I also wanted to mount a cha-cha cowbell. I decided the best place for both would be to my left, under the ride cymbal.

This is the mount for the cowbell - 3/8 rod bent and threaded with a deep bolt to fit into the clamp.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Newmounts4.jpg

This is the mount for the metronome. It has a 5 mm threaded hole in the back. I drilled a hole into the end of a 3/8 rod and threaded it, then inserted a bolt, tightened it and sawed off the end and added a rubber washer for grip and cushioning. The other end of the rod fits into an LP Claw.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Newmounts3.jpg

Both mounted. The clamp is attached to the ride cymbal stand and holds the cowbell rod. The LP Claw grabs the clamp.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Newmounts2.jpg

How it looks from the driver's seat.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Newmounts5.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Newmounts1.jpg

[Tuxido]

Hi,
heres a riser I made for my 16" bass drum, it cost me 9$ to do.

I used some left over melamine I had, plumming pole, and a foam thing that usually goes on plumming stuff.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t172/Tuxido9/HPIM0460.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t172/Tuxido9/HPIM0459.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t172/Tuxido9/HPIM0458.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t172/Tuxido9/HPIM0457.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t172/Tuxido9/HPIM0463.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t172/Tuxido9/HPIM0464.jpg

EDIT: according to GN scientist, what I used is: 1" black nipple, a couple of galvanized floor flanges, a stick of 1" x 3/4" wall foam insulation and a drawer handle

[Deathmetalconga]

Hi,
heres a riser I made for my 16" bass drum, it cost me 9$ to do.

I used some left over melamine I had, plumming pole, and a foam thing that usually goes on plumming stuff.

EDIT: according to GN scientist, what I used is: 1" black nipple, a couple of galvanized floor flanges, a stick of 1" x 3/4" wall foam insulation and a drawer handle

Very cool! Looks like the pipe unscrews to break down for transport?

Professional looking work and it matches your set.

[Tuxido]

Yes, It can be broken down, but doesn't really need to since its not that big

[Les Ismore]

This may or may not have already been covered.

Here's an old trick for stands that may be a bit 'sticky' when tightened due to the ferrous (pot metal) compressing onto steel and/or the washer bending on a unflat surface. Simple fix... 'fiber washers'. These can be had at local hardware stores. Fiber washers placed 'underneath the stock metal washer' will prevent the pot metal wing nuts from sticking.

A particularly nasty example of sticking stand tilters is the Sonor 1000 series stands (pictured below). The composition of the pot metal to steel on the Sonor 1000's make a vice like 'stick' when even moderate pressure is applied to them. Really hard on your fingers to open when this happens. Lubeing makes it worse, b/c you get a tighter grip.

With the fiber washer down first, you can do away with having to use two drumsticks as 'leverage pliers' to open tilters etc. Take your stock metal washer to the store for sizeing, you don't even want to try a 'cut down' a fiber washer, its not an option.

Works on ANY make/model of stand you have a sticking problem with.

[Deathmetalconga]

This may or may not have already been covered.

Here's an old trick for stands that may be a bit 'sticky' when tightened due to the ferrous (pot metal) compressing onto steel and/or the washer bending on a unflat surface. Simple fix... 'fiber washers'. These can be had at local hardware stores. Fiber washers placed 'underneath the stock metal washer' will prevent the pot metal wing nuts from sticking.

Great idea. I have seen those fiber washers on things and wondered what they were for. I have some things that stick and I think i will get some fiber washers now and try it out.

You are right that lubricating something doesn't always make it easier to loosen. Sometimes, the lube lets you get things really, really tight to where you can't loosen by hand. Strange but true.

I've always wondered by stand parts are made out of low-grade pot metal. Maybe to save costs. But I'd be willing to pay more for stands that were made of high-grade and lighter steel.

[Deathmetalconga]

CONVERSION OF STANDARD PEDAL TO LONGBOARD

Fourstrings lamented the ridiculous expense of DW longboard and I popped off about how I could convert a standard into a longboard - he called my bluff and I had to try it just to see if I could. Total cost: $2 in bolts, $5 in shop costs, $30 for labor, about two hours of time for work and planning. Basically, I removed the heel plate and joined it to the footboard with a gusset, then attached the hinge to the heel plate.

Pedal before the mod.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Long1.jpg

The hardest part was fabricating the gusset. I sawed off a chunk of half-inch-thick steel plate. It's overkill, but it's what I had handy and you will never ever have to worry about the gusset failing.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Long2.jpg

Careful measuring ensured the original dimensions would be carried over to the new pedal.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Long3.jpg

I drilled holes to mount it to the heel plate and foot plate (you can see the smoke from the burning thread oil).
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Long4.jpg

As long as I was taking things apart, I cleaned and oiled the original hinge.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Long5.jpg

This is the only permanent modification I had to make to the pedal, drilling a couple of holes to re-mount the hinge. Other than this, the mod is completely reversible.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Long6.jpg

Putting it all together: checking the fit of the gusset.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Long7.jpg

Checking of the action of the pedal.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Long8.jpg

Once I confirmed the fit and function of the gusset, I disassembled everything for finishing. I ground the gusset edges smooth and cleaned off suface rust.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Long9.jpg

A coat of paint finished it.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Long10.jpg

During reassembly, I used a Dremel to grind off the bolts and make them flush with the surface of the footboard.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Long11.jpg

Some Loctite ensured the bolts will stay put.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Long12.jpg

The finished pedal.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Long13.jpg

As used in the set.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Long14.jpg

I have to admit I'm not too fond of the action of a longboard. I've strictly played a standard pedal for 25 years so the longboard feels weird. I imagine if I'd started with a longboard it would feel normal. So I will probably reverse this at some point, but at least I can say I did it and tried it out.

[Les Ismore]

Is that the stock, godawful hinge in pic 1 that gave the first 5000's their bad reputation?

Measured at rear of pedal, what's the distance from top of foot board, to the bottom of hinge?

What's your total foot board length as a long board?

Your 'gusset' looks pretty heavy.

[Deathmetalconga]

Is that the stock, godawful hinge in pic 1 that gave the first 5000's their bad reputation?

Measured at rear of pedal, what's the distance from top of foot board, to the bottom of hinge?

What's your total foot board length as a long board?

Your 'gusset' looks pretty heavy.

Regarding your first question, yes, that is the stock hinge. This isn't even all that old for a DW 5000. In fact, I wasn't aware they had upgraded.

Second question: I'm confused. Do you mean what is the overall length of the unified longboard pedal, including the hinge? Let me measure that.

Third question: I will measure that too. You could add it up also by measuring a stock DW 5000 footboard, hinge and heel plate and adding them together.

Fourth question: Yes, it's somewhat heavy. I chunk of aluminum would be lighter and as strong as necessary. But this doesn't seem to make much difference anyway because it's so far back. It will certainly never bend! The pedal is a prototype just to see if I could do it and what it would be like.

[Fett2oo5]

theoritically if you would like to use thinner plate, say 1/8" thick. You could, if you are willing to add in some welding.

You would take the same size plate but of 1/8" steel. You could then make "fins" out of the same plate material, and weld them to the bottom. Cut a small half circle or a half oval, if you will, and weld 1 or 2 to the bottom of the plate (making sure they won't hit the bottom plate underneath (the red plate).

Anyway now that I have thoroughly confused everyone, welding fins to the back of a plate used in this matter would make it much more resistant to bending.

just a little fyi.

my 2 cents: you could do this with 1/4" plate which for this application would be highly unlikely to bend, and even if it does, you could take it off, heat it up and bend it back. OR after you make your first one and mock it up to make sure it all fits, you could make 2 or 3 as backups if you were concerned at all.

Make sure to cover it with the appropriate paint, it is iron after all, you don't want it to rust!

[Deathmetalconga]

theoritically if you would like to use thinner plate, say 1/8" thick. You could, if you are willing to add in some welding.

You would take the same size plate but of 1/8" steel. You could then make "fins" out of the same plate material, and weld them to the bottom. Cut a small half circle or a half oval, if you will, and weld 1 or 2 to the bottom of the plate (making sure they won't hit the bottom plate underneath (the red plate).

Anyway now that I have thoroughly confused everyone, welding fins to the back of a plate used in this matter would make it much more resistant to bending.

just a little fyi.

my 2 cents: you could do this with 1/4" plate which for this application would be highly unlikely to bend, and even if it does, you could take it off, heat it up and bend it back. OR after you make your first one and mock it up to make sure it all fits, you could make 2 or 3 as backups if you were concerned at all.

Make sure to cover it with the appropriate paint, it is iron after all, you don't want it to rust!

Those are some great ideas,thanks. I will give that some thought. But what purpose would the fins serve? To strengthen the gusset, like how the top and bottom of an I-beam make it stronger than just a strip of steel?

I think quarter-inch-thick plate would be just as good as half-inch, and easier to work with and lighter, and need no reinforcement. An eighth-inch would probably also work - the big red base of the pedal is 16th-of-an-inch aluminum and bends fairly easily. Really, quarter-inch-thick plate aluminum would be the best - fairly strong, very light and very easy to work with.

[Les Ismore]

Measured at rear of pedal, what's the distance from top of foot board, to the bottom of hinge? So, the heel plate (extreme-rear of pedal), measure distance from the top of it, to the 'red' bottom plate, which the hinge sits on. Height of rear of pedal will affect action/feel.

Axis and Trick longboards are 12" front to back. The above measurement in question on the Axis long board is 3/4" with the foot board at a 24 degree angle. The hinge (pivot point) is usually placed at the 'extreme-rear' of a foot board. With the position of your hinge, its doubtful your getting the true feel of a longboard. Gusset's weight would also counter some action.

[razorx]

How did rob like the modified pedal?

[Deathmetalconga]

He acknowledged I made this prototype but wasn't interested in having me do one for him.

[tbmills]

i shortened a boom arm under my ride.
i removed the tilter and used a hacksaw to take about 8" off the front to keep a polished end.

before:
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll106/tbmills1/IMG_0380.jpg

after:
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll106/tbmills1/IMG_0396.jpg

[Deathmetalconga]

i shortened a boom arm under my ride.
i removed the tilter and used a hacksaw to take about 8" off the front to keep a polished end.



Very smooth work. I did this once a long time ago but I cut it off from the back. It was easier than but didn't look nearly as nice. Yours looks OEM quality.

If you have access to a drill press, you should consider drilling a hole through the tilter, so the hole would go through the tilter housing, through the boom rod and through the other side of the tilter housing.You could then put a machine bolt and nut through it. Or maybe use some epoxy to help hold the rod in the tilter housing (although you'd have to take it apart). The cymbal arm is going to get exposed to a lot of vibration and twisting and the rod could work its way out of the tilter someday - probably in the middle of a gig because that's the only time hardware breaks down.

[tbmills]

my custom internal bass drum mic mount

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll106/tbmills1/IMG_0489.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll106/tbmills1/IMG_0497.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll106/tbmills1/IMG_0496.jpg

[Deathmetalconga]

tbmills asked me how I made a foot-pedal cabasa mod. Here it is. You may need a vise and hacksaw to cut the carriage bolt. The method is probably similar for many different pedals. Obvioulsy, you will need to take the cabasa and pedal into a hardware store to assemble all the correct parts and check fit. You will need LocTite to keep the cabasa from loosening during use.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Explodedview.jpg
Exploded view of mounting system. From left: carriage bolt, washer, lock washer, cabasa, washer, deep nut.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Beaterup.jpg
Mounted cabasa. One end of the deep nut secures the carriage bolt, while the other end screws to the end of the pedal axle. I also modified the beater, threading each end and putting a lock bolt on each end and welding a wing nut to the tension bolt that secures the beater. This allows me to retract the beater by hand for cabasa-only playing, or to extend the beater for cabasa/block playing.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/Agogobell/Beaterdown.jpg
Beater retracted for cabasa-only playing. This option is an improvement over the Meinl version, as it's a one-trick pony. My option allows use of another bell or block.

[sel498]

I was reading up on internal micing and decided to make a internal mic mount for the Beta 52, So i took a L bracket and drilled 2 holes to correspond with one of the lugs on my bass drum, then took a mic stand cut it off to the desired length and drilled two holes in it and the other end of the bracket, putt a rubber gasket between the two metals, and one between the drum and the metal. Not the best looking one but cheaper than a Shu.. all in all totaled out at 11.00. I painted silver due to the fact i could not find any black paint around the house, then the next day i found a post from a guy on here that made one w/ plexi-glass and it looks sweet, so I am on the hunt for the parts to make one like it...
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m179/sel498/IMG_0103.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m179/sel498/mine2.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m179/sel498/mine.jpg

[Deathmetalconga]

I was reading up on internal micing and decided to make a internal mic mount for the Beta 52, So i took a L bracket and drilled 2 holes to correspond with one of the lugs on my bass drum, then took a mic stand cut it off to the desired length and drilled two holes in it and the other end of the bracket, putt a rubber gasket between the two metals, and one between the drum and the metal. Not the best looking one but cheaper than a Shu.. all in all totaled out at 11.00. I painted silver due to the fact i could not find any black paint around the house, then the next day i found a post from a guy on here that made one w/ plexi-glass and it looks sweet, so I am on the hunt for the parts to make one like it...


Good work. But where does the cable go?

[genericdrummingusername]

I was reading up on internal micing and decided to make a internal mic mount for the Beta 52, So i took a L bracket and drilled 2 holes to correspond with one of the lugs on my bass drum, then took a mic stand cut it off to the desired length and drilled two holes in it and the other end of the bracket, putt a rubber gasket between the two metals, and one between the drum and the metal. Not the best looking one but cheaper than a Shu.. all in all totaled out at 11.00. I painted silver due to the fact i could not find any black paint around the house, then the next day i found a post from a guy on here that made one w/ plexi-glass and it looks sweet, so I am on the hunt for the parts to make one like it...

Nice work, but WHY are you usind a DW for a trash can?

[Deathmetalconga]

Nice work, but WHY are you usind a DW for a trash can?

Those look like bags that the hardware parts come in (nuts and bolts, etc.). I assume he would take those out of the kick before closing it up again!

[genericdrummingusername]

Those look like bags that the hardware parts come in (nuts and bolts, etc.). I assume he would take those out of the kick before closing it up again!


Oh. Looked like a libraty card and remainder of a siran-wrapped PBJ to me. Still seems pretty Zainy to me.

[sel498]

Sorry for delay, yes it was the nuts bolts package., and i no longer use that mount, it was puttingto much weight on the two bolts of one lug, now i use and reccomend this to everyone....
First off this thing is awesome, this cuts 15 minutes off my setup time. Its called the kelly Shu and you can learn more at www.kellyshu.com , it comes in two types and aluminum and a composite version I opted for the composite version For on $51 + 10.00 S+H= 62.00US. The pictures really explain it all. it took about 10 minutes to install, and was very easy. It is a interior shock mounted microphone mount. Before i had rigged one that was just mounted on one lug and i was worried about the stress is was causing, trust me i didnot want to see my DW kick crack, so i purchased THe Shu and it spreads the wait evenly around the drum to many lug screws. It is easy to adjust and works with any mic, i am seriously considering getting 3 more to put in my toms, the only drums it does not work with is Peavey radials...
i attached an image of my earlier attempt at a interior mount. Also i dint have to drill any hole for the mic cable i just removed the XLR end and ran it through the existing vent hole and re sodered and i am ready to go. So check out the pics and check there website, this is a great produst and i give it an A++++++
here is a link showing how it is installed and the many different setups....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjnXVcAjCtE
old ...
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m179/sel498/mine.jpg
NEW!!!!!!!!
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m179/sel498/My%20drums/CIMG0959.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m179/sel498/My%20drums/CIMG0960.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m179/sel498/My%20drums/CIMG0959.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m179/sel498/My%20drums/CIMG0958.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m179/sel498/kelllyyyy.jpg

[Deathmetalconga]

Sorry for delay, yes it was the nuts bolts package., and i no longer use that mount, it was puttingto much weight on the two bolts of one lug, now i use and reccomend this to everyone....
First off this thing is awesome, this cuts 15 minutes off my setup time. Its called the kelly Shu and you can learn more at www.kellyshu.com , it comes in two types and aluminum and a composite version I opted for the composite version For on $51 + 10.00 S+H= 62.00US. The pictures really explain it all. it took about 10 minutes to install, and was very easy. It is a interior shock mounted microphone mount. Before i had rigged one that was just mounted on one lug and i was worried about the stress is was causing, trust me i didnot want to see my DW kick crack, so i purchased THe Shu and it spreads the wait evenly around the drum to many lug screws. It is easy to adjust and works with any mic, i am seriously considering getting 3 more to put in my toms, the only drums it does not work with is Peavey radials...
i attached an image of my earlier attempt at a interior mount. Also i dint have to drill any hole for the mic cable i just removed the XLR end and ran it through the existing vent hole and re sodered and i am ready to go. So check out the pics and check there website, this is a great produst and i give it an A++++++
here is a link showing how it is installed and the many different setups....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjnXVcAjCtE
old ...


Very nice work. You might want to look at putting a female tip-ring-sleeve connector in the air hole vent and wiring the interior mic cable up to that. Then put a male TRS connector on the other end of the power cable. Then, all you'd have to do is "plug in" your bass drum and you'd never have a mic cable dangling out of it. I wired one up and the mod is on this thread somewhere.

[sel498]

Very nice work. You might want to look at putting a female tip-ring-sleeve connector in the air hole vent and wiring the interior mic cable up to that. Then put a male TRS connector on the other end of the power cable. Then, all you'd have to do is "plug in" your bass drum and you'd never have a mic cable dangling out of it. I wired one up and the mod is on this thread somewhere.

Great idea...i hav thought about that, and probably eventually might, but TRS connectors scare me a bit..I mean i think the XLR has a more.......quality, balanced signal. I would love to just drill out for an recessed xlr mount plug in, i am just not up to drilling in the drum.. Thanks
j

[Deathmetalconga]

Great idea...i hav thought about that, and probably eventually might, but TRS connectors scare me a bit..I mean i think the XLR has a more.......quality, balanced signal. I would love to just drill out for an recessed xlr mount plug in, i am just not up to drilling in the drum.. Thanks
j

TRS, also known as stereo quarter-inch, is XLR. Don't confuse TRS with a standard mono instrument plug. TRS was developed to carry XLR signals into mixing boards and other places where XLR plugs and sockets take up too much room. Look at wiring diagrams and you'll see TRS is the same as XLR in terms of signal and wiring and shielding; the only thing different is the plugs. You could do away with XLR plugs and just use TRS, but most mics still use XLR. The Tip, Ring and Sleeve of TRS each carry one of the three XLR pin signals.

You could do this mod if you had a soldering iron and you will have to order a 90-degree TRS plug to fit under the drum, but it is a pretty easy mod and it's cool just to be able to "plug in" your bass drum!

[sel498]

TRS, also known as stereo quarter-inch, is XLR. Don't confuse TRS with a standard mono instrument plug. TRS was developed to carry XLR signals into mixing boards and other places where XLR plugs and sockets take up too much room. Look at wiring diagrams and you'll see TRS is the same as XLR in terms of signal and wiring and shielding; the only thing different is the plugs. You could do away with XLR plugs and just use TRS, but most mics still use XLR. The Tip, Ring and Sleeve of TRS each carry one of the three XLR pin signals.

You could do this mod if you had a soldering iron and you will have to order a 90-degree TRS plug to fit under the drum, but it is a pretty easy mod and it's cool just to be able to "plug in" your bass drum!

Awesome, i think i will do this, I would just need to get a new TRS connector to install on drum and a TRS 90 degree 3' long to xlr to plug into snake, thanks so much!!

[Deathmetalconga]

Awesome, i think i will do this, I would just need to get a new TRS connector to install on drum and a TRS 90 degree 3' long to xlr to plug into snake, thanks so much!!

Have fun with that. The nice thing is that there is no permanent modification to the drum and it is completely reversible. Just remember to take your custom cord with you because sound guys likely won't have that connection.

[JENGLISH817]

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o110/OleMofjell/Cy012.jpg


"As you can see, I have made an x-hat, the way someone (I can not remember who) did here on the forum. That was a great way to make an x-hat! Thanks!"


Can you give feedback on how to do this? I can't seem to find any threads on how to make a x-hat.

[Deathmetalconga]

"As you can see, I have made an x-hat, the way someone (I can not remember who) did here on the forum. That was a great way to make an x-hat! Thanks!"

Can you give feedback on how to do this? I can't seem to find any threads on how to make a x-hat.

I'm not sure I know what you mean by "x-hat." Do you mean a secondary hihat not connected to a foot pedal, stays closed all the time? If that is what you mean, fourstringdrums has some descriptions of that early in this thread.

[romenydrummer1964]

The pipe from Home Depot is raw conduit. Aluminum I believe. It would have to go to a special shop to give it a shiny finish according to a friend of mine. He suggested I paint it, but I doubt paint would hold up after some abuse with clamps and what not. I'm not too, too worried about it being bright and shiny. After all, most of what I do is just in my music room. I don't expect to do much gigging any time soon and if I did, I doubt someone would walk out of the bar because I was using raw conduit instead of chrome plated tubing. heheh I was wondering if I could just buff it out, but my friend said I couldn't. I could always just replace my entire rack with the conduit and resell the Gibraltar tubing to make everything match. The hardware on my kit is black, and the super shiny chrome doesn't entirely match to my eyes.

I do want to bring a clamp in to check. Gibraltar tubing is 1.5". I know they have that in the conduit. But ya, there may be a slight difference. Next time I go to Home Depot I'll bring a clamp. I'm pretty sure you can get end caps there as well. Only one of my current rack tubes has an end capped. All of the horizontal bars terminate into T clamps, and two of my three vertical bars have boom arms on top to hold crashes. The leg tubes have 'feet' caps on them as well. So in my case, caps aren't too much of a concern though it is something to consider for the overall project.

I really like the idea of having custom length tubes to fit exactly how I want. I've been wanting a third side to my rack as well, so I can convert my hat stand into a legless one and mount a cymbal or two, or something over there. I have extra clamps now which warrant something new to add to the line up. hahah!

I just finished the construction of a straight rack using 1 1/4" EMT conduit from my local Lowe's. The EMT conduit is a light steel and the 1 1/4" refers to the inside diameter. The outside diameter however, is exactly 1.5" inches and my Gibraltar clamps fit perfectly! I have mounted 3 toms and 5 cymbals to it and I will let them sit there for 48 hours to ensure no slippage or loosening under the weight before I even attempt to start playing. I used the corresponding joining sleeves EMT 1.25" and the 90 degree elbows also in 1.25".
These were in turn connected to the pre welded "T" sections that I cut from an old chain link security gate that the elbows and sleeves fit over (just barely). Later this week I am going to drill the sleeves and main pipes and elbows to accomodate 1/4" X 2" carriage bolts and wing nuts for added stability. If I encounter any slippage with the gibraltar clamps, I will add friction tape underneath to add dimension and adhesive resistance to the mounting bar. I'll post pics along the way!!

UPDATE: I have now added the 1/4"X 2" bolts w/ wing nuts for added stability, and have now made the cosmetic changes with black gloss paint. I am still working on some ideas for my "kick snare". If anybody has any ideas please let me know!!

[romenydrummer1964]

I recently replaced my old Zildjian planet z 13" beginner hi-hats with ZXT series 14". My older stand that came with my Accent CS kit wasn't designed for that weight, so I replaced the stand with a new heavy duty Ludwig hat stand. I decided to keep the old stand, and put to use with my Stagg tambourine. I cut the legs off the lighter stand, and the mounting rod so that it would fit underneath the bigger stand.I used a mapex expandable double end clamp and attached the 2 hat stands together. I then clamped on the tambourine, and "wah-la!" a foot activated tambourine! I placed cymbal felts underneath to minimize any click sounds that would result from hard plastic striking metal. I also took 2 GPS flexible mounting brackets, cut the suction cups off, and with 2 "U-Bolts" clamped them vertically to the heavier hat stand... the top one holds my Sony PSP that I now use to view video lessons or to accompany practice music with, while the lower clamp holds my Korg metronome. I also added a vehicle window mounted beverage holder to hold my water bottle, and my pro mark stick holder to hold my main pair of sticks. Now I have what I call a "HAT COMMAND POST" to hold everything within easy reach as I play. I'm now currently working on a way to play my Pearl piccolo snare with an old foot pedal as an accent to my main Ludwig snare. I'll post that project later!

[Deathmetalconga]

I recently replaced my old Zildjian planet z 13" beginner hi-hats with ZXT series 14". My older stand that came with my Accent CS kit wasn't designed for that weight, so I replaced the stand with a new heavy duty Ludwig hat stand. I decided to keep the old stand, and put to use with my Stagg tambourine. I cut the legs off the lighter stand, and the mounting rod so that it would fit underneath the bigger stand.I used a mapex expandable double end clamp and attached the 2 hat stands together. I then clamped on the tambourine, and "wah-la!" a foot activated tambourine! I placed cymbal felts underneath to minimize any click sounds that would result from hard plastic striking metal. I also took 2 GPS flexible mounting brackets, cut the suction cups off, and with 2 "U-Bolts" clamped them vertically to the heavier hat stand... the top one holds my Sony PSP that I now use to view video lessons or to accompany practice music with, while the lower clamp holds my Korg metronome. I also added a vehicle window mounted beverage holder to hold my water bottle, and my pro mark stick holder to hold my main pair of sticks. Now I have what I call a "HAT COMMAND POST" to hold everything within easy reach as I play. I'm now currently working on a way to play my Pearl piccolo snare with an old foot pedal as an accent to my main Ludwig snare. I'll post that project later!

Dude, you got it goin' on! I'm impressed with your rack system and concept for turning the hihat into a central command post. Very good design and execution if I do say so myself.

[stumpjumper_steve]

This thread gave me inspiration for my weekend project. Here you go:

Allow me a moment to set the stage for the following mod. Nothing is more aggravating than the time it takes to set up our kits, right? Of course. Now add on the additional time it takes to mic the drums externally, run cords, etc, etc. Before you know it, you've added quite a bit of time to a normally long sequence of events as it is. And we all know that mics cost quite a bit of money and nothing sinks the heart faster than whacking the crap out of your brand new Shures in an exuberant Dave Weckl/Carter Beauford inspired drum roll while doing an overplayed cover of Stairway to Heaven at the end of a three hour show in August in the heat...ah, I digress.

Anyway, after looking at quite a few manufactures products for mic'ing internally, I decided to take advantage of a rainy evening and a couple of trips to Home Depot later...voila, here you go.

Here's what I started with.
http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs226.snc1/7331_1146863357892_1416801047_30391031_951121_n.jp g

I started off with the part I needed to fab myself. A regular wall shelve support bracket from Home Depot. Unfortunately, it did not bend the way I need it to, so I got to buy a blow torch as well.

That was the fun part. Now I can light my stoogies with NO problem.
http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs226.snc1/7331_1146863677900_1416801047_30391032_7836280_n.j pg
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs226.snc1/7331_1146863957907_1416801047_30391033_5601012_n.j pg
http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs206.snc1/7331_1146864317916_1416801047_30391035_3861124_n.j pg

The next part is a little tricky. Take apart the mic cable, feed the FEMALE end into the drums port hole and reassemble. I bring attention to this little step since I fed the male end in...TWICE. So now I'm an expert at soldering.

It should look like this.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30391031&id=1416801047

Here's the mounting bracket that I fabbed earlier, painted and installed. Also, the bulge on the wire is simply a band of electrical tape wrapped around the cable larger than the port hole so the cable won't pull back out. I also used a "hi-tech bonding strap" (bread package twist tie) to keep the cable up and away from making contact with the drum head.
http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs226.snc1/7331_1146866677975_1416801047_30391039_4910730_n.j pg
Almost there:
http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs206.snc1/7331_1146866877980_1416801047_30391040_1061654_n.j pg
Here's the mount in place covering the port hole and hiding the cable's exit somewhat.
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs206.snc1/7331_1146867197988_1416801047_30391042_3498773_n.j pg
Finished product with cable attached.
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs226.snc1/7331_1146867517996_1416801047_30391044_4396907_n.j pg

A couple of small things:
I probably could have ordered longer lug bolts but didn't feel like waiting, so I tapped the lugs to a 32 and run a longer #8 32 bolt.
I left the longer cable attached so it runs straight from the drum, across my rack, and into my personal mixer. I did this for a couple of reasons. First, if I cut a smaller cable, I'm right back to having to attach a number of cables and back to the time issue. This way, I can mount the drum directly on the rack, route the cable to the mixer before adding the cymbals to the rack and BAM, it's done. And secondly, it was just easier.
And finally...wear eye protection, solder splatters when dropped.

Anyway, there you have it. Total cost invested:
4 pack of "L" clamps - $2.98
Black spray paint - $.98
Longer bolts, nuts, washers to do all drums - $3.98
Blow torch - $19.98


Total - around $30 after taxes (not counting cost of beer) $95 after beer.
Time spent - about 10 minutes per drum average. The first one took about 1/2 hour re-soldering the same cable three different times!

[Deathmetalconga]

This thread gave me inspiration for my weekend project. Here you go:

Allow me a moment to set the stage for the following mod. Nothing is more aggravating than the time it takes to set up our kits, right? Of course. Now add on the additional time it takes to mic the drums externally, run cords, etc, etc. Before you know it, you've added quite a bit of time to a normally long sequence of events as it is. And we all know that mics cost quite a bit of money and nothing sinks the heart faster than whacking the crap out of your brand new Shures in an exuberant Dave Weckl/Carter Beauford inspired drum roll while doing an overplayed cover of Stairway to Heaven at the end of a three hour show in August in the heat...ah, I digress.

Anyway, after looking at quite a few manufactures products for mic'ing internally, I decided to take advantage of a rainy evening and a couple of trips to Home Depot later...voila, here you go.



Really cool idea and execution.

If you really wanted to add a nice touch - and since you solder - make it so you can plug in your drums in the same way a guitarist plugs in his acoustic guitar. It will blow some minds (at least among people who pay attention to such things).

For each drum, get a quarter-inch male stereo plug and a quarter-inch female stereo socket. As you may know, quarter-inch stereo (also called Tip-Ring-Sleeve or TRS) is the exact same wiring as XLR, except it won't carry phantom power, but that is not a concern since you are using dynamic mics. People plug dynamic mics into quarter-inch stereo all the time.

Install the quarter-inch stereo socket in the vent hole of the drum; it will fit perfectly in the vent hole. Cut the mic cable a foot or so from the mic end and solder the end to the female socket inside the drum. Next solder the male plug to the end of the outside mic cable. I recommend 90-degree male plugs so you don't have to worry about accidentally hitting the plug and damaging a connection. Not many audio stores will carry these so you may need to order them, about four bucks each.

This way, you will be left with no cables dangling from the drums. When you want to mic up your set, you simply "plug in" your drums! You will need to carry these cables with you as most sound guys won't have them, but the XLR end will connect to any XLR cables if you need a longer run. You will need to Google search some wiring diagrams to make the correct connections between XLR and TRS. This project and some more beer will keep you busy for an afternoon!

See this thread entry of 02-14-07 for an explanation with photos of how I did this, as well as my set thread below.

[BassDriver]

Is there are DIY way of making a chain driven pedal into a direct drive pedal.

I have a Tama Iron Cobra Jnr., wondering if it's possible?